Hmm .... how to classify the last couple of days in Hong Kong. Well .... we've immersed ourselves (ok, small underestimate ... more accurately described as drowned!) in Hong Kong's culture ... of SHOPPING.
We have done a little of the other side of culture too i.e. we went up to The Peak. A tram ride that goes up on a 45o angle. Bobbie voiced a few concerns about the safety thereof but it was the family behind us that left us in amazement. The father turns to his son and says "Alfie, now what do you think would happen if the brakes failed and we started going backwards" ... poor Alfie was perhaps all of 7 yrs old and Bobbie said he had a look of horror on his face. Way to go Dad .... I turned round and commented that it was the sort of comment we were just discussing that should NOT be vocalised. Sheesh, keep it in your own head buddy. The view was somewhat lacking ... very cloudy day and as far as the eye could see .... we could see cloud. Perfect hazy white fluffiness. Took photos regardless. Went for a delicious but unnecessary lunch at Bubba Gump's while there ... which was amusing when Bobbie asked whether I had ever noticed that when someone drinks from a beer glass you can sometimes see their teeth through the bottom and then proceeded to show me. I burst out laughing and she laugh/sprayed beer back into her glass frothing it up. I could not look at her without that silent hysterical laugh that brings tears to your eyes. Forrest was in the house.
After lunch we went for a fish pedicure ... the little Garra Rufa fish suck away all the dead skin on your feet. Was soooo funny. I was the first to put my feet in and it was like happy hour for the fish. Had just about every single little sucking mouth on my feet and it was crazy. Not ticklish, but it did feel like they were nibbling to start with (so many little mouths at once). Once Bobbie put her feet in a few flocked over to her. Squeals and shrieks emanated from us. Trying to take photos was tricky as we were laughing so hard.
We booked a river cruise for the Symphony of Lights .... 40 high rise buildings participate in a light show set to music (and very well executed). However, we tried to squeeze in dinner at the 2 Star Michelin Restaurant in the hotel and then on advice catch the subway. Mistake. We did not make it, despite running and shoving others aside. We were both very disappointed and it was hard to concentrate on the light show. Caught the taxi back to the hotel which took 10 minutes ... the subway had taken 30 (with combined walking). Damn! So off to the Ladies Markets we went in the hope of drowning our sorrows in a bit of retail therapy. The therapist was very good. Returned to the hotel to assess the damage. We are concerned our bags have an eating disorder. They keep getting stuffed to the brim and spilling over. It's disturbing.
Dinner at Ming Court was great. We definately ordered way too much food but it was fantastic. I ordered drunken prawns which was a really crazy dish. We had seen them walk out and place the prawns (all still alive) on the central serving table. They poured in some chinese wine vineagar and quickly placed the lid back on. Because the container was glass we could see the prawns flipping, twisting and splashing about. It was a complete rave in that pot! One of the waitresses was so nice and explained it to us, she said that we had to wait until the prawns were so drunk they weren't moving (legless?) ... then they were dropped into boiling water. They tasted sooooo good. Bobbie filmed the performance on her iphone. At some point I will definately be posting that.
We've tried all modes of public transport ... the underground is amazing and spotless. The buses cheap, but less than spotless and the taxis .. well, taxi drivers all over the world obviously have to have the ability to weave in and out of traffic causing maximum possible heart failure to their passengers .. as a required skill.
Crossing the road is like being a tiny little fish that just floats along with the current. Serious amounts of people here. Seriously out of our depth. That song from Sesame Street is constantly playing in our heads "One of these things is not like the others".
Have now locked myself in the hotel room to prevent any further transgressions against airline safety with their concern for excess baggage. Hoping I look pitiful enough at the airport to slide through. I wonder just how many pairs of shoes and outfits I can actually wear?
Monday, July 18, 2011
Friday, July 15, 2011
Hong Kong is going to kill us ....
Friday, July 15
Arrived into Hong Kong very early in the morning and by the time we got to the gorgeous Langham Place Hotel (gasp) we were both feeling quite bleary eyed ... especially Bobbie. They were very accommodating and by 11am we had a room. Bobbie may have kissed the concierge, receptionist and porter ... had she the energy to do so. Up in the room, Bobbie jumped into bed and was ready for la la land by about 11.30am. I grabbed the computer and searched for a nearby laundry, bundled up our dirty stuff and went for a walk. Finally after walking past second hand electronic stores, local meat market stalls which looked suspect, I found the Yun Wah Laundry. So for roughly $3, they washed, dried and folded our clothes within 2 hours! Love it. Wondering if I can take them home with me.
By the time I had finished picking up the laundry, I was feeling dizzy with the jet lag as well so set the alarm and crashed for a couple of hours. It was a good refresher so we checked with the concierge where we could go to eat. Went to the Lie Garden Restaurant a few blocks away ... probably a little more expensive than we expected (about $90 for the two of us) but it was really tasty! We weren't quite up to braving the Pig Pancreas or Duck Tongue just yet ... we did order the Baby Duck ... all the baby ducks went out one day and never came back. ♫quack ♫ quack ♫ quack ♫ quack. ♫
As we wandered back to our hotel, we stumbled onto the Ladies Markets. Uh Oh. Bobbie started glazing over. She was frothing at the mouth I'm sure. It was a losing battle. I think we got to the 4th stall on the left and there were bags. How much? $499 (Hong Kong Dollars). Nup, we start to walk away ... ok ok ... how much you think. I said $200 (equates to roughly $24). She wasn't so keen for us to walk away and kept coming down from $350. She knew I was the one with the money and the most resolve. Bobbie needs to work on her game face. That look of longing won't do her any favours when it comes to bargaining! Went to walk away and she offered $150 ($18) ... oh, ok. I'm sure if we tried walking again she may have brought it down even further.
I'm now really concerned for Bobbie's welfare. Moaning as we pass stalls by is probably not a good sign. The drooling is a dead giveaway as well.
Pray now for our bags ... they may not take the extra load.
Arrived into Hong Kong very early in the morning and by the time we got to the gorgeous Langham Place Hotel (gasp) we were both feeling quite bleary eyed ... especially Bobbie. They were very accommodating and by 11am we had a room. Bobbie may have kissed the concierge, receptionist and porter ... had she the energy to do so. Up in the room, Bobbie jumped into bed and was ready for la la land by about 11.30am. I grabbed the computer and searched for a nearby laundry, bundled up our dirty stuff and went for a walk. Finally after walking past second hand electronic stores, local meat market stalls which looked suspect, I found the Yun Wah Laundry. So for roughly $3, they washed, dried and folded our clothes within 2 hours! Love it. Wondering if I can take them home with me.
By the time I had finished picking up the laundry, I was feeling dizzy with the jet lag as well so set the alarm and crashed for a couple of hours. It was a good refresher so we checked with the concierge where we could go to eat. Went to the Lie Garden Restaurant a few blocks away ... probably a little more expensive than we expected (about $90 for the two of us) but it was really tasty! We weren't quite up to braving the Pig Pancreas or Duck Tongue just yet ... we did order the Baby Duck ... all the baby ducks went out one day and never came back. ♫quack ♫ quack ♫ quack ♫ quack. ♫
As we wandered back to our hotel, we stumbled onto the Ladies Markets. Uh Oh. Bobbie started glazing over. She was frothing at the mouth I'm sure. It was a losing battle. I think we got to the 4th stall on the left and there were bags. How much? $499 (Hong Kong Dollars). Nup, we start to walk away ... ok ok ... how much you think. I said $200 (equates to roughly $24). She wasn't so keen for us to walk away and kept coming down from $350. She knew I was the one with the money and the most resolve. Bobbie needs to work on her game face. That look of longing won't do her any favours when it comes to bargaining! Went to walk away and she offered $150 ($18) ... oh, ok. I'm sure if we tried walking again she may have brought it down even further.
I'm now really concerned for Bobbie's welfare. Moaning as we pass stalls by is probably not a good sign. The drooling is a dead giveaway as well.
Pray now for our bags ... they may not take the extra load.
What day is it?
OK so our last (holiday) day in Italy was spent as such: Bobbie made her way to the cliff top pool and proceeded to cook herself. By the time I got back from a walk down to the city (Sorrento), she had a belly a lovely shade of pink ... which then increased in intensity to a fiery red ... minus her belly button. Her belly button was white. On. Off. On. Off. It looked like a great button to press.
I also stripped down to my togs and jumped into the pool - ahhhhh, it was so nice. Sunning myself under the shade of an olive tree on the cliff top with Mt Vesuvius in the background heat haze. Fabulous.
Boarded to bus that would take us back to Pompeii ... where we get on another bus to return us to Rome. When we got to Pompei Roulf, Elisha, Bobbie & I were a touch thirsty. We had 15 minutes so it was off to the bar next door. They eventually came to find the wayward Australians ... and we were last on the bus. Bobbie boarded with her beer in hand and was sent to the naughty corner seat right down the back! As the journey went on Bobbie had started talking to some lovely Australian girls, also on the back row. Eventually we realised that the whole back 3 rows were Aussies, apart from the emo kid sitting next to me who literally did NOT move the whole entire journey. At one point, Roulf asked me if he was alive. I was afraid to test it. Figured he must have been since his head nodded sleepily down at one stage. Anyway, back to the Aussies ...... we were laughing and comparing holiday stories and basically being a little more vocal than anyone else on the bus. Hey, it was a 3 hour bus ride. An Indian lady sitting about 3 rows in front of me actually turned around and told (not asked) us all to be quiet. It really wasn't a good idea to do that. We weren't yelling ... just having a good time. It didn't work let's just say. There was a lull for a short while (it had been a long day for those who had been to Pompei) but it soon started again ... but this time we had some singers in our midst. There were some great harmonies coming from the back of the bus ... including Abba's Mamma Mia!
The 3 hour bus ride was over all too soon and we were back in Rome. A sad farewell to our new friends Roulf & Elisha ... and the rest of the misfit Aussies in the bus. Only the one night in Rome as we caught the train to Rome's airport for our flight to Milan and then onward to Hong Kong.
Thank goodness we broke the journey home in Hong Kong because jet lag is tightening her grip on our sand filled eyes ... but will not prevail because Bobbie has tasted the fruits of shopping already in Hong Kong. Watch out luggage.
I also stripped down to my togs and jumped into the pool - ahhhhh, it was so nice. Sunning myself under the shade of an olive tree on the cliff top with Mt Vesuvius in the background heat haze. Fabulous.
Boarded to bus that would take us back to Pompeii ... where we get on another bus to return us to Rome. When we got to Pompei Roulf, Elisha, Bobbie & I were a touch thirsty. We had 15 minutes so it was off to the bar next door. They eventually came to find the wayward Australians ... and we were last on the bus. Bobbie boarded with her beer in hand and was sent to the naughty corner seat right down the back! As the journey went on Bobbie had started talking to some lovely Australian girls, also on the back row. Eventually we realised that the whole back 3 rows were Aussies, apart from the emo kid sitting next to me who literally did NOT move the whole entire journey. At one point, Roulf asked me if he was alive. I was afraid to test it. Figured he must have been since his head nodded sleepily down at one stage. Anyway, back to the Aussies ...... we were laughing and comparing holiday stories and basically being a little more vocal than anyone else on the bus. Hey, it was a 3 hour bus ride. An Indian lady sitting about 3 rows in front of me actually turned around and told (not asked) us all to be quiet. It really wasn't a good idea to do that. We weren't yelling ... just having a good time. It didn't work let's just say. There was a lull for a short while (it had been a long day for those who had been to Pompei) but it soon started again ... but this time we had some singers in our midst. There were some great harmonies coming from the back of the bus ... including Abba's Mamma Mia!
The 3 hour bus ride was over all too soon and we were back in Rome. A sad farewell to our new friends Roulf & Elisha ... and the rest of the misfit Aussies in the bus. Only the one night in Rome as we caught the train to Rome's airport for our flight to Milan and then onward to Hong Kong.
Thank goodness we broke the journey home in Hong Kong because jet lag is tightening her grip on our sand filled eyes ... but will not prevail because Bobbie has tasted the fruits of shopping already in Hong Kong. Watch out luggage.
Betty is in the House
Tuesday, 12 July
Today we had our excursion to the Isle of Capri ... we boarded our little minibus and once at the meeting point met our Tour Guide. Her name was Irene. She was roughly in her 70s. Before we made our way to the dock she explained on the bus that the Blue Grotto at Capri was open but we could be waiting quite a while to enter it if we did not beat the Japanese boat there first. She told us (deadpan) that we would need to run faster than them off the ferry boat because they always ran! That just reduced the 4 Australians in the bus to hysterics. So there Bobbie & I, Roulf & Elisha were shrieking with laughter. We were already primed for mischief as Irene's face from the top lip up did not move and Roulf declared that she must have had Botox... in excess. We stood in line for the ferry making quite a racket laughing and coming up with a code name for Irene ... when Roulf mentioned that she reminded him of a Thunderbird puppet ... hilarity ensued and her new name was born B.T. (Botox Thunderbird) .... which developed into Betty.
Betty was actually lovely. We were good little tourists and obeyed Betty's every command.
We visited a cameo factory which was fabulous - one of the masters was sitting there carving a beautiful muse into the seashell. Then of course we are 'invited' into the showroom where you can make a purchase. I had thought of buying one for someone special who loves cameos but the prices were ridiculous ... but then the really good ones were ridiculously amazing. The ones I could afford were obviously by students and I didn't like them.
Onto the ferry where we waited at the exit, ready to run. Gathered up our Lebanese & Argentinian tour companions when it was time to disembark and the 9 of us beat the Japanese!! Betty was very happy with us. Just quietly I'm pretty sure she thought the Australians had partaken of a little too much morning beverages (coffee/champagne). Off the ferry, onto the motorboat and zipped away to the Blue Grotto. We really only waited about 30-45mins for our turn to transfer, 4 at a time, into the little row boats. The entrance to the cave is very low and poor Rolph had not only his wife but me lying over him as well. The rowers butt was extremely close to my face ... awkward. Inside it's stunning .... the sunlight reflects off the white sand and turns the water an irridescent blue that glimmers and sparkles against the cave wall. Apparently the Romans use to come here and bath. It was so hot and the water looked sooo good, it was highly tempting to just 'fall' out of the boat. Alas, no such luck there was a 2000 Euro fine for such folly.
Had lunch at a restaurant up at the highest village on the island - Anacapri which was owned by Betty's son. Everybody ordered Spaghetti Bolognese ... expecting some meat. When it came, it was difficult to find it amongst the tomato sauce (not that I'm complaining because it was delicious). I did find a 3mm piece right in the last mouthful though. We then had a bit of free time so Bobbie & I took the funicular up to the highest point on the island. It was a little .. um ... scary for me on the way up. The 'safety' features of our single person chairlift was a mental bar that sat across your lap ... with no latch. I looked at the ground in a couple of places and said to myself 'if I fall here, it's ok ... I'll just break a leg' .... in another 'if I fall here ... I'm dead'. Oh cheery thought. Good news, I didn't fall and the view was indescribable. Photos will never do it justice. Simply breaktaking. Ate my delicious strawberry, chocolate & lemon flavoured gelato at the top overlooking the Bay of Naples. Back onto the chairlift and the ride down was not nearly as nerve racking. The view was spectacular. Well worth the random 'I'm going to die' thoughts.
A visit to a parquetry factory/showroom was included in the visit as well and again .. while the craftsmanship was impressive ... the bank balance would not have allowed for such impressiveness to be exported home to Australia. In fact, we decided that you really needed a house built around some of the lovely pieces of furniture.
Onto the bus to go back to our wonderful hotel it was. We were talking to Betty on the way back and she said that if she had a group like us everyday it would be wonderful. She had really enjoyed being with us. Our group was lovely and we had a wonderful day. We were however extremely hot and sweaty and even though the hotel pool 'closed' at 6.00pm, you've never seen three women run so fast to get into a pool. Stupid grins of contentment were plastered on our faces as we lowered our body temperatures.
We joined Roulf & Elisha for dinner (partly because we were hoping to avoid another date request but mostly because they were great company!) and we were by far the noisest table there ... we were also the last table there :) Our waiters particularly enjoyed us and were playing along and having fun as well. One particular waiter was really fun and was quite obviously enjoying the atmosphere we had going in our little corner.
*sigh* Another great day on the Amalfi Coast.
Today we had our excursion to the Isle of Capri ... we boarded our little minibus and once at the meeting point met our Tour Guide. Her name was Irene. She was roughly in her 70s. Before we made our way to the dock she explained on the bus that the Blue Grotto at Capri was open but we could be waiting quite a while to enter it if we did not beat the Japanese boat there first. She told us (deadpan) that we would need to run faster than them off the ferry boat because they always ran! That just reduced the 4 Australians in the bus to hysterics. So there Bobbie & I, Roulf & Elisha were shrieking with laughter. We were already primed for mischief as Irene's face from the top lip up did not move and Roulf declared that she must have had Botox... in excess. We stood in line for the ferry making quite a racket laughing and coming up with a code name for Irene ... when Roulf mentioned that she reminded him of a Thunderbird puppet ... hilarity ensued and her new name was born B.T. (Botox Thunderbird) .... which developed into Betty.
Betty was actually lovely. We were good little tourists and obeyed Betty's every command.
We visited a cameo factory which was fabulous - one of the masters was sitting there carving a beautiful muse into the seashell. Then of course we are 'invited' into the showroom where you can make a purchase. I had thought of buying one for someone special who loves cameos but the prices were ridiculous ... but then the really good ones were ridiculously amazing. The ones I could afford were obviously by students and I didn't like them.
Onto the ferry where we waited at the exit, ready to run. Gathered up our Lebanese & Argentinian tour companions when it was time to disembark and the 9 of us beat the Japanese!! Betty was very happy with us. Just quietly I'm pretty sure she thought the Australians had partaken of a little too much morning beverages (coffee/champagne). Off the ferry, onto the motorboat and zipped away to the Blue Grotto. We really only waited about 30-45mins for our turn to transfer, 4 at a time, into the little row boats. The entrance to the cave is very low and poor Rolph had not only his wife but me lying over him as well. The rowers butt was extremely close to my face ... awkward. Inside it's stunning .... the sunlight reflects off the white sand and turns the water an irridescent blue that glimmers and sparkles against the cave wall. Apparently the Romans use to come here and bath. It was so hot and the water looked sooo good, it was highly tempting to just 'fall' out of the boat. Alas, no such luck there was a 2000 Euro fine for such folly.
Had lunch at a restaurant up at the highest village on the island - Anacapri which was owned by Betty's son. Everybody ordered Spaghetti Bolognese ... expecting some meat. When it came, it was difficult to find it amongst the tomato sauce (not that I'm complaining because it was delicious). I did find a 3mm piece right in the last mouthful though. We then had a bit of free time so Bobbie & I took the funicular up to the highest point on the island. It was a little .. um ... scary for me on the way up. The 'safety' features of our single person chairlift was a mental bar that sat across your lap ... with no latch. I looked at the ground in a couple of places and said to myself 'if I fall here, it's ok ... I'll just break a leg' .... in another 'if I fall here ... I'm dead'. Oh cheery thought. Good news, I didn't fall and the view was indescribable. Photos will never do it justice. Simply breaktaking. Ate my delicious strawberry, chocolate & lemon flavoured gelato at the top overlooking the Bay of Naples. Back onto the chairlift and the ride down was not nearly as nerve racking. The view was spectacular. Well worth the random 'I'm going to die' thoughts.
A visit to a parquetry factory/showroom was included in the visit as well and again .. while the craftsmanship was impressive ... the bank balance would not have allowed for such impressiveness to be exported home to Australia. In fact, we decided that you really needed a house built around some of the lovely pieces of furniture.
Onto the bus to go back to our wonderful hotel it was. We were talking to Betty on the way back and she said that if she had a group like us everyday it would be wonderful. She had really enjoyed being with us. Our group was lovely and we had a wonderful day. We were however extremely hot and sweaty and even though the hotel pool 'closed' at 6.00pm, you've never seen three women run so fast to get into a pool. Stupid grins of contentment were plastered on our faces as we lowered our body temperatures.
We joined Roulf & Elisha for dinner (partly because we were hoping to avoid another date request but mostly because they were great company!) and we were by far the noisest table there ... we were also the last table there :) Our waiters particularly enjoyed us and were playing along and having fun as well. One particular waiter was really fun and was quite obviously enjoying the atmosphere we had going in our little corner.
*sigh* Another great day on the Amalfi Coast.
Wednesday, July 13, 2011
We're just one of the flock!
Monday, July 11
OK ... so before we left Australia we signed up for an organised tour ... this is my FIRST ever organised tour - I've also freelanced my travel plans. We were picked up in Rome early morning and luckily for us/me ... we discovered that you can buy pocket expressos! Think of the size of a tomato sauce squeezer sachet and swap the contents for a chocolatey expresso ... complete with a miniature straw!
When it was my turn to go into the bathroom to get ready I noticed there was a pocket expressor (empty) packet in the shower ... can anyone say 'desperate'??? Had a laugh with Bobbie about that.
Onto the transfer bus and then onto the tour bus for our trip to Southern Italy. It's a 3 day tour and we get to visit some great places. Today we made our way to Naples & Pompeii initially. After about 1.5 hours we stopped for a 'pee pee break' as our tour director called it. We had been given strict instructions to make our way to the toilets first and then go to the refreshment bar so that we could be the first bus out and subsequently the first bus arriving in Pompeii. Like good little sheep we baaaaaed and turn right to the toilets and afterwards grab our refreshments. Back on the bus for roughly another hour and we arrived in Naples where we had a very brief introduction to some of the main sites of Naples. My second time in Naples and I can't say I like it any better. Still looks like an industrial worksite to me. Interestingly, back in 2002 roughly they were excavating to create an underground station and found a Roman Museum ... scratch that station for the underground huh?
Next was Pompeii. HOWEVER ... before going into the ruins, we were taken to a Cameo factory and saw one of the Masters carving a gorgeous cameo into a shell. A walk through the sales room was of course next and while I would LOVE to have bought a decent cameo ... it was WAY out of my price range!
The next 2 hours we walked around the ruins of Pompeii. Along the lava cobbled roads we walked and ducked into any available shade at designated information spots. It was as always immensely interesting but so different to how I remember it. I guess it has been quite a while since I was last here. The remaining bodies are now viewed through jail-like cells, along with original columns, tables, jars, platters etc. Even a dog was caught in the ash fall out. Speaking of dogs .... there were quite a few live ones hogging all the shade too. Smart though - they knew that the ruins that still have marble are the coolest. We saw the Roman baths with the various cold and steam rooms. The steam room thankfully was cool and I found myself lying against a nearly 2000 year old column syphoning it's coolness into my skin. We also saw a brothel. I saw one in Pompeii's ruins last time I was here and it certainly wasn't this one. This one was decorated with frescos ... and I think I leave that up to your imagination. Let's just say they left nothing to the imagination. It was great to see again ... and to see different things than I had before.
Last stop for the day was Sorrento. OH WOW. Not sure that the view can actually be googled! A few hair-raising turns on the mountain edge as we came into the city and we were delivered to our hotel. OH WOW ... the hotel. OH WOW. It's right on the corner of one of the cliff faces. We can stand on our balcony and see the whole city of Sorrento below us ... the Bay of Naples gapes wide in front and then we have Mt Vesuvius right across the bay. S.T.U.N.N.I.N.G. There's 5 pools with a cascading water feature (haven't seen that part yet as the pool closed just as we rocked up!). And dinner in the restaurant was brilliant. I think Bobbie & I were having way too much fun laughing at each other ... but hey, the rest of the patrons were kinda staid. We finished dinner and were off to meet another Australian couple in the Piano Bar and as we were leaving one of the waiters asked 'where are you going'. Tried to explain we were meeting friends but there was obviously a communication gap. I finally clicked to what was happening when he gestured towards another waiter and said 'drinks at the square' ... I looked at Bobbie and said 'Date!' ... Ooooohhhhh Capeesh! Not tonight ... "tomorrow?" ... um, let's see how we feel after tomorrow says Bobbie. Hmmm ... thinking we need to cement a date with our Australian couple for dinner tomorrow night before we get propositioned again.
OK ... so before we left Australia we signed up for an organised tour ... this is my FIRST ever organised tour - I've also freelanced my travel plans. We were picked up in Rome early morning and luckily for us/me ... we discovered that you can buy pocket expressos! Think of the size of a tomato sauce squeezer sachet and swap the contents for a chocolatey expresso ... complete with a miniature straw!
When it was my turn to go into the bathroom to get ready I noticed there was a pocket expressor (empty) packet in the shower ... can anyone say 'desperate'??? Had a laugh with Bobbie about that.
Onto the transfer bus and then onto the tour bus for our trip to Southern Italy. It's a 3 day tour and we get to visit some great places. Today we made our way to Naples & Pompeii initially. After about 1.5 hours we stopped for a 'pee pee break' as our tour director called it. We had been given strict instructions to make our way to the toilets first and then go to the refreshment bar so that we could be the first bus out and subsequently the first bus arriving in Pompeii. Like good little sheep we baaaaaed and turn right to the toilets and afterwards grab our refreshments. Back on the bus for roughly another hour and we arrived in Naples where we had a very brief introduction to some of the main sites of Naples. My second time in Naples and I can't say I like it any better. Still looks like an industrial worksite to me. Interestingly, back in 2002 roughly they were excavating to create an underground station and found a Roman Museum ... scratch that station for the underground huh?
Next was Pompeii. HOWEVER ... before going into the ruins, we were taken to a Cameo factory and saw one of the Masters carving a gorgeous cameo into a shell. A walk through the sales room was of course next and while I would LOVE to have bought a decent cameo ... it was WAY out of my price range!
The next 2 hours we walked around the ruins of Pompeii. Along the lava cobbled roads we walked and ducked into any available shade at designated information spots. It was as always immensely interesting but so different to how I remember it. I guess it has been quite a while since I was last here. The remaining bodies are now viewed through jail-like cells, along with original columns, tables, jars, platters etc. Even a dog was caught in the ash fall out. Speaking of dogs .... there were quite a few live ones hogging all the shade too. Smart though - they knew that the ruins that still have marble are the coolest. We saw the Roman baths with the various cold and steam rooms. The steam room thankfully was cool and I found myself lying against a nearly 2000 year old column syphoning it's coolness into my skin. We also saw a brothel. I saw one in Pompeii's ruins last time I was here and it certainly wasn't this one. This one was decorated with frescos ... and I think I leave that up to your imagination. Let's just say they left nothing to the imagination. It was great to see again ... and to see different things than I had before.
Last stop for the day was Sorrento. OH WOW. Not sure that the view can actually be googled! A few hair-raising turns on the mountain edge as we came into the city and we were delivered to our hotel. OH WOW ... the hotel. OH WOW. It's right on the corner of one of the cliff faces. We can stand on our balcony and see the whole city of Sorrento below us ... the Bay of Naples gapes wide in front and then we have Mt Vesuvius right across the bay. S.T.U.N.N.I.N.G. There's 5 pools with a cascading water feature (haven't seen that part yet as the pool closed just as we rocked up!). And dinner in the restaurant was brilliant. I think Bobbie & I were having way too much fun laughing at each other ... but hey, the rest of the patrons were kinda staid. We finished dinner and were off to meet another Australian couple in the Piano Bar and as we were leaving one of the waiters asked 'where are you going'. Tried to explain we were meeting friends but there was obviously a communication gap. I finally clicked to what was happening when he gestured towards another waiter and said 'drinks at the square' ... I looked at Bobbie and said 'Date!' ... Ooooohhhhh Capeesh! Not tonight ... "tomorrow?" ... um, let's see how we feel after tomorrow says Bobbie. Hmmm ... thinking we need to cement a date with our Australian couple for dinner tomorrow night before we get propositioned again.
Laundry Day
Sunday 10 July
Today was our last day in Venice *sniffle* and as we were running short on clean clothes I pack up the bag and left Bobbie sleeping while I found 1 of just 3 public laundries in Venice! I had the opening time mixed up so on my second trip back I just sat down and waited for it to open.
A neatly dressed Italian man walked past and paused looking at me (I probably looked a right state as I hadn't even brushed my hair!). He started speaking to me so I said I didn't speak Italian. It did not deter him. He was obviously not in any great hurry as he continued talking to me for the next 25 minutes ... Language barrier notwithstanding!
After I tried to gesture and pronounce that the laundry was not open yet, He went through the finer points of pronunciation differences between English & Italian. He explained the similarities with other latin based languages but made sure I understood it was hard for Italians to pronounce some English words. We discussed how long I was staying in Venice and where else I had been on my holiday. I apparently should have gone to the main square before doing the laundry because there are no crowds and I could get a very fine photo. He was very excited to find out I was Australian and asked how long the flight was. He found it amusing that I am married with three children and I had left them all at home to go on holiday with my sister (who also had 3 children). He was impressed I had been married for 17 years and proudly announces that his parents had been married for 50 (and it is a time for celebrating such an achievement).
All this time I'm wondering why the laundry hasn't opened on time. There was someone else there waiting and when 7:45am came along he pushed on the door and it swung open.
I stood up to start the washing but my buddy wasn't quite finished .... He continued talking and then introduced himself (and I just can't remember his name - something like Renaldo) and when I said my name was Lisa, he got all excited. He started singing ... But could only remember the first couple of lines "Lisa with the blue eyes!". Apparently it's not such an old song but somewhat modern. It sounded a little Dean Martin-ish. He finally said ciao and was on his way.
I returned later to the laundry to collect our gear and was then met by a sweet little old lady who so started babbling to me in Italian. She got the idea I was struggling with comprehension and switched to English. She was a Venetian who had spent 50 years in the US and the last 25 in Venice! She chatted away and told me how she had been looking for a laundry, told me about her brother in Rome and kept reminding me she was 78. When I left, she walked alongside me and continued chatting - I think it must have been a while since she spoke English because she was really enjoying the chat.
The rest of our day was just a case of ticking off walking over the Rialto Bridge and picking up some more gifts (Venice has given the wallet a beating!)
As we had to catch the fast train back to Rome, we popped into a pizzeria for a refuelling stop. One of our waiters was pretty amusing ... Walking by us ... Announcing that Australia was beautiful, that we were beautiful! At one stage Bobbie was hamming it up with him as he walked past with someone's meal bringing it dangerously close to Bobbie as a taunt only to have her make snapping actions for it much to his amusement. As we left he shook our hands and then decided better of it. He took our hands again and double cheek kissed us. Italian kiss count up to 4 I think!!
.... And I've just realised I didn't have a gelati today. WOE IS ME!!
Today was our last day in Venice *sniffle* and as we were running short on clean clothes I pack up the bag and left Bobbie sleeping while I found 1 of just 3 public laundries in Venice! I had the opening time mixed up so on my second trip back I just sat down and waited for it to open.
A neatly dressed Italian man walked past and paused looking at me (I probably looked a right state as I hadn't even brushed my hair!). He started speaking to me so I said I didn't speak Italian. It did not deter him. He was obviously not in any great hurry as he continued talking to me for the next 25 minutes ... Language barrier notwithstanding!
After I tried to gesture and pronounce that the laundry was not open yet, He went through the finer points of pronunciation differences between English & Italian. He explained the similarities with other latin based languages but made sure I understood it was hard for Italians to pronounce some English words. We discussed how long I was staying in Venice and where else I had been on my holiday. I apparently should have gone to the main square before doing the laundry because there are no crowds and I could get a very fine photo. He was very excited to find out I was Australian and asked how long the flight was. He found it amusing that I am married with three children and I had left them all at home to go on holiday with my sister (who also had 3 children). He was impressed I had been married for 17 years and proudly announces that his parents had been married for 50 (and it is a time for celebrating such an achievement).
All this time I'm wondering why the laundry hasn't opened on time. There was someone else there waiting and when 7:45am came along he pushed on the door and it swung open.
I stood up to start the washing but my buddy wasn't quite finished .... He continued talking and then introduced himself (and I just can't remember his name - something like Renaldo) and when I said my name was Lisa, he got all excited. He started singing ... But could only remember the first couple of lines "Lisa with the blue eyes!". Apparently it's not such an old song but somewhat modern. It sounded a little Dean Martin-ish. He finally said ciao and was on his way.
I returned later to the laundry to collect our gear and was then met by a sweet little old lady who so started babbling to me in Italian. She got the idea I was struggling with comprehension and switched to English. She was a Venetian who had spent 50 years in the US and the last 25 in Venice! She chatted away and told me how she had been looking for a laundry, told me about her brother in Rome and kept reminding me she was 78. When I left, she walked alongside me and continued chatting - I think it must have been a while since she spoke English because she was really enjoying the chat.
The rest of our day was just a case of ticking off walking over the Rialto Bridge and picking up some more gifts (Venice has given the wallet a beating!)
As we had to catch the fast train back to Rome, we popped into a pizzeria for a refuelling stop. One of our waiters was pretty amusing ... Walking by us ... Announcing that Australia was beautiful, that we were beautiful! At one stage Bobbie was hamming it up with him as he walked past with someone's meal bringing it dangerously close to Bobbie as a taunt only to have her make snapping actions for it much to his amusement. As we left he shook our hands and then decided better of it. He took our hands again and double cheek kissed us. Italian kiss count up to 4 I think!!
.... And I've just realised I didn't have a gelati today. WOE IS ME!!
I'm feeling kneaded!!
Saturday, 9 July
Today was my birthday and I get to enjoy it in my favorite city in the world .... Venice! We jumped on a Vaporetto and went to Murano - in ancient times his was where the Venetian Glass Artists would create their work. Not really being sure which point on the Island to hop off we just went with the crowd - it was very sheep-like! We were directed to one of the glass factories and were able to see some of the techniques used in glass blowing. Afterwards Bobbie & I broke from the herd and just wandered through the backstreets and eventually followed signs to the main canal. It was nice just walkin through 'suburbia'. Merrily going through many many glass stores shopping up a storm with gifts
(hoping people like glass!). You have to be careful though - if it's too cheap it's more than likely imported from China .... and if I wanted Venetian glass from China - I would go to China. With a smattering of Italian and English we discovered that authentic Murano glass is sometimes stamped (not always though because some two tone colours would shatter). So we're shopping smart!
Thoroughly enjoyed the excursion but we had to be back on the main island before too long as Bobbie had organised a birthday present for me - a full body massage. A little daunting because I remember my sisters' full body massage experience in Thailand a few years ago (eep).
Ok so we made it in time (finding an address in Venice is challenging to say the least) and I was led to my room. The lady handed me a little packet and mumbled something in Italian that I thought ended with 'sleep'. Bobbie had made it very clear I was to RELAX & ENJOY so I figured it might be an eye mask. It wasn't. I pulled it out of the packet and thought to myself 'this is one damn big eye mask ... And see through too'. Ok so guess no.1 was incorrect. Then I thought maybe it's to cover my meager chest ... But I couldn't see how on earth I was to put those two elastic little bands around me. Oh dear, nothing for it but to ask. So I call out in Italian to ask what to do. She fiddles with it for a second and it dawns on me .... It's a paper g-string! Ok so you're
more than likely laughing now - I do know about paper g-strings but this was one hell of a huge thing. *groan* I put the damn thing on (the right way of course!) and lie face down ready for my massage. It was a very relaxing massage, though she could have spent the entire hour on my feet (bliss)! I obviously relaxed a little too much a couple of time because I heard myself make that contented little snort/snore sound in the back of my throat! Oops
After a while she tapped my hand to get me to flip over ... Thought process was like this "it's ok, pretend like you go full frontal with paper g-strings on all the time!". "keep a straight face". "Geez I hope I'm looking relaxed" When she got to my stomach, I almost giggled ... Not because I'm extremely ticklish but she was moving her hand across my expanding belly like it was a lump of dough and I was being kneaded in order to make bread buns. Straight face, straight face! And THEN ... she massaged my chest and that was probably the weirdest thing I have ever experienced! I thought she was trying to make profiteroles (cause that's about how much dough she had to work with!)
Ok so now I was all slicked up with massage oil and when I related the experience to Bobbie I thought she was going to pee herself - she just had visions of me trying to put that damn paper g-string on my eyes like and eye-mask. I will point out here I did no such thing - I'm not as Cabbage as I am green-looking!
Met up with my friend Rhonda from church who also happens to be in Venice. It was a very hot sticky day so a quick respite in the hotel room was needed. We crossed the closest bridge and wandered around looking for somewhere to eat. Found an open-air restaurant and ate way too much and waddles back to the hotel. We had a lot of laughs especially when taking our selfies! Earlier in the day Bobbie bought me a Sacher Torte at the chocolatier next door o our hotel (it was a SIGN) and we celebrated my birthday with Rhonda & Bobbie singing Happy Birthday to me .... And a somewhat disturbing running man dance was performed! We had no knife to hand so used the plastic cup to cut the cake. It was DELICIOUS!
All in all a great birthday!
Today was my birthday and I get to enjoy it in my favorite city in the world .... Venice! We jumped on a Vaporetto and went to Murano - in ancient times his was where the Venetian Glass Artists would create their work. Not really being sure which point on the Island to hop off we just went with the crowd - it was very sheep-like! We were directed to one of the glass factories and were able to see some of the techniques used in glass blowing. Afterwards Bobbie & I broke from the herd and just wandered through the backstreets and eventually followed signs to the main canal. It was nice just walkin through 'suburbia'. Merrily going through many many glass stores shopping up a storm with gifts
(hoping people like glass!). You have to be careful though - if it's too cheap it's more than likely imported from China .... and if I wanted Venetian glass from China - I would go to China. With a smattering of Italian and English we discovered that authentic Murano glass is sometimes stamped (not always though because some two tone colours would shatter). So we're shopping smart!
Thoroughly enjoyed the excursion but we had to be back on the main island before too long as Bobbie had organised a birthday present for me - a full body massage. A little daunting because I remember my sisters' full body massage experience in Thailand a few years ago (eep).
Ok so we made it in time (finding an address in Venice is challenging to say the least) and I was led to my room. The lady handed me a little packet and mumbled something in Italian that I thought ended with 'sleep'. Bobbie had made it very clear I was to RELAX & ENJOY so I figured it might be an eye mask. It wasn't. I pulled it out of the packet and thought to myself 'this is one damn big eye mask ... And see through too'. Ok so guess no.1 was incorrect. Then I thought maybe it's to cover my meager chest ... But I couldn't see how on earth I was to put those two elastic little bands around me. Oh dear, nothing for it but to ask. So I call out in Italian to ask what to do. She fiddles with it for a second and it dawns on me .... It's a paper g-string! Ok so you're
more than likely laughing now - I do know about paper g-strings but this was one hell of a huge thing. *groan* I put the damn thing on (the right way of course!) and lie face down ready for my massage. It was a very relaxing massage, though she could have spent the entire hour on my feet (bliss)! I obviously relaxed a little too much a couple of time because I heard myself make that contented little snort/snore sound in the back of my throat! Oops
After a while she tapped my hand to get me to flip over ... Thought process was like this "it's ok, pretend like you go full frontal with paper g-strings on all the time!". "keep a straight face". "Geez I hope I'm looking relaxed" When she got to my stomach, I almost giggled ... Not because I'm extremely ticklish but she was moving her hand across my expanding belly like it was a lump of dough and I was being kneaded in order to make bread buns. Straight face, straight face! And THEN ... she massaged my chest and that was probably the weirdest thing I have ever experienced! I thought she was trying to make profiteroles (cause that's about how much dough she had to work with!)
Ok so now I was all slicked up with massage oil and when I related the experience to Bobbie I thought she was going to pee herself - she just had visions of me trying to put that damn paper g-string on my eyes like and eye-mask. I will point out here I did no such thing - I'm not as Cabbage as I am green-looking!
Met up with my friend Rhonda from church who also happens to be in Venice. It was a very hot sticky day so a quick respite in the hotel room was needed. We crossed the closest bridge and wandered around looking for somewhere to eat. Found an open-air restaurant and ate way too much and waddles back to the hotel. We had a lot of laughs especially when taking our selfies! Earlier in the day Bobbie bought me a Sacher Torte at the chocolatier next door o our hotel (it was a SIGN) and we celebrated my birthday with Rhonda & Bobbie singing Happy Birthday to me .... And a somewhat disturbing running man dance was performed! We had no knife to hand so used the plastic cup to cut the cake. It was DELICIOUS!
All in all a great birthday!
Monday, July 11, 2011
I LOVE VENICE!!
Friday, July 8
Wow ... I love this city ... always have from the first moment I visited when I was 18. After a fab breakfast we were off. There's so much to see (and buy) in Venice that I decided we would NOT be doing it all. I was just going to focus on getting Bobbie to the main sites and then relax, get lost in the back streets and shop.
First stop was San Marco, the sumptuous basilica in the main square. The main part of the basilica is free to enter but I would have paid for it anyway. Bobbie donned her very cute church outfit (i.e. scarves around shoulders and legs ... it's a great look) and we were in. We stepped inside to the pure voices of nuns singing praises to God ... I got goosebumps. Where to look was an issue. Either you got caught admiring the tesselated patterns of the marble tiles (some even with a 3D effect) or you look heavenward to be greeted with glittering mosaics of glass. Unbelievable. Awe inspiring. I've been in this basilica before and it never ceases to invoke a sense of reverence. It truly is a feast for the eyes. All through our wanderings in the chapel the nuns continued their worship and it was so beautiful, I was moved to tears.
We then moved on to the Campanile (bell tower) ... we had assumed we were paying for the pleasure of walking up numerous stairs only to be pleasantly surprised that there was a lift to the top (yay us!). Great views, despite trying to manoever around others at the top. Bobbie was definately getting the full eye treatment from the Italian lift operator! Oh la la! Couldn't peel his eyes away!
I wanted to get away from the main piazza as that's where all the tourists are and prices are usually push higher because of it. Starting wandering into the back streets behind the piazza and stumbled across the glass store I have looked for ever since I first visited Venice. I was soooo excited! This store has a 1.5metre wide window and it is FILLED with a miniature orchestra complete with string, wind and percussion area. There are elegantly dressed men and women dancing in their period costumes underneath triple light poles ... gondalas gliding past in the 'water'. Found another couple of stores that I will forever keep the business cards in the hope that when someone else visits Venice, they can bring me back more miniature glass creations.
Instead of catching a vaporetto (bus boat) back to our side of Venice, we walked .... oh my, what a long walk it was. Up and down bridges, into squares that are not marked on the map but plenty of wonderful things to see on the way.
It was pretty much time for dinner when we got back to the hotel so we made an effort (as per our travel book suggested to do while in Venice) and donned a pair of clean jeans and high heels. It was an effort trust me! Walked up and down a couple of blocks and then settled on eating at Gino's ... the restaurant right across from our hotel! Met a lovely couple from Canada and spent the evening twisting round and talking to them and laughing at some of the experiences we have had.
Can't remember if I've mentioned it but Bobbie has trouble rolling her R's (ok, she just can't do it). Presents a bit of a problem when in Italy as they all roll the R here ... especially when saying thank you "Grazie". Bobbie's comes out as "Grassy". We had been discussing this with our Villa owner back in Tuscany and she laughed because 'Grassi' means FAT. So everytime Bobbie has presumably been polite saying thank you ... she has in fact been calling everybody FAT. FAT. FAT. FAT. Have since discovered that once she's had a couple of wines, the R's roll real well!
Wow ... I love this city ... always have from the first moment I visited when I was 18. After a fab breakfast we were off. There's so much to see (and buy) in Venice that I decided we would NOT be doing it all. I was just going to focus on getting Bobbie to the main sites and then relax, get lost in the back streets and shop.
First stop was San Marco, the sumptuous basilica in the main square. The main part of the basilica is free to enter but I would have paid for it anyway. Bobbie donned her very cute church outfit (i.e. scarves around shoulders and legs ... it's a great look) and we were in. We stepped inside to the pure voices of nuns singing praises to God ... I got goosebumps. Where to look was an issue. Either you got caught admiring the tesselated patterns of the marble tiles (some even with a 3D effect) or you look heavenward to be greeted with glittering mosaics of glass. Unbelievable. Awe inspiring. I've been in this basilica before and it never ceases to invoke a sense of reverence. It truly is a feast for the eyes. All through our wanderings in the chapel the nuns continued their worship and it was so beautiful, I was moved to tears.
We then moved on to the Campanile (bell tower) ... we had assumed we were paying for the pleasure of walking up numerous stairs only to be pleasantly surprised that there was a lift to the top (yay us!). Great views, despite trying to manoever around others at the top. Bobbie was definately getting the full eye treatment from the Italian lift operator! Oh la la! Couldn't peel his eyes away!
I wanted to get away from the main piazza as that's where all the tourists are and prices are usually push higher because of it. Starting wandering into the back streets behind the piazza and stumbled across the glass store I have looked for ever since I first visited Venice. I was soooo excited! This store has a 1.5metre wide window and it is FILLED with a miniature orchestra complete with string, wind and percussion area. There are elegantly dressed men and women dancing in their period costumes underneath triple light poles ... gondalas gliding past in the 'water'. Found another couple of stores that I will forever keep the business cards in the hope that when someone else visits Venice, they can bring me back more miniature glass creations.
Instead of catching a vaporetto (bus boat) back to our side of Venice, we walked .... oh my, what a long walk it was. Up and down bridges, into squares that are not marked on the map but plenty of wonderful things to see on the way.
It was pretty much time for dinner when we got back to the hotel so we made an effort (as per our travel book suggested to do while in Venice) and donned a pair of clean jeans and high heels. It was an effort trust me! Walked up and down a couple of blocks and then settled on eating at Gino's ... the restaurant right across from our hotel! Met a lovely couple from Canada and spent the evening twisting round and talking to them and laughing at some of the experiences we have had.
Can't remember if I've mentioned it but Bobbie has trouble rolling her R's (ok, she just can't do it). Presents a bit of a problem when in Italy as they all roll the R here ... especially when saying thank you "Grazie". Bobbie's comes out as "Grassy". We had been discussing this with our Villa owner back in Tuscany and she laughed because 'Grassi' means FAT. So everytime Bobbie has presumably been polite saying thank you ... she has in fact been calling everybody FAT. FAT. FAT. FAT. Have since discovered that once she's had a couple of wines, the R's roll real well!
Friday, July 8, 2011
Siena
Thursday, 7 July
I had been reading the night before and on waking at around 6.30am the first thought that popped into my head was that we were going to receive a nice hefty fine for driving in Siena's ZTL (limited traffic zone). Jumped online and with a sinking feeling I realised that was probably the case. DAMN.
Checked out of our Villa, said our farewells and jumped back into the car to return it to Siena. Went into the same parking area (just outside the zone) and just took it REAL easy for the rest of the day. Wandering aimlessly through the lovely streets of Siena. Could not believe the difference at Il Campo where the Palio had run just days before. Such a big square.
We really only took in one site in Siena and that was the Cathedral. Churches are just littered everywhere in almost every place in Italy but this is one not to be missed. Possibly one of the most amazing interiors I have every seen. There are marble inlays and mosaics all over the floor (whereas normally you would see these on the ceiling). The interior columns were alternating strips of white and black marble with the roof a deep blue and covered with stars. Truly amazing. In a side chapel there was a display of music books that would have to have been almost a metre high and the walls were covered with fantastic frescoes. Loved it loved it loved it.
Back to the car and we made it all the way back to the Avis without a single dent, scratch or mishap (unless you count the more than likely ZTL fine). Kissed Guiseppe goodbye and it was onto the train to Venice. The first leg was excruiatingly hot in the train ... the air-con was not working for a good proportion of the 1.5 hour trip to Florence - even the locals were complaining (always a good sign that you're not merely a wimpy tourist). Second half to Venice much better as we were in first class on the fast train. Nice. Even free wine/drinks and nibblies.
Arrived in Venice about 9.30pm and Bobbie was soooo excited. We only had to turn left out of the train station and walk about 5 minutes to our hotel which was good. These bags are too heavy to try and get onto a boat! Hotel Principe is nice .. we have a little step onto terrace and AIR-CONDITIONING. bliss. When the porter opened up our window with the Grand Canal below I thought Bobbie was going to plant a kiss on him - she was jumping up and down with excitement.
Now ... I wonder how I will go with shopping here ... will I blow the carry on baggage limit here?
I had been reading the night before and on waking at around 6.30am the first thought that popped into my head was that we were going to receive a nice hefty fine for driving in Siena's ZTL (limited traffic zone). Jumped online and with a sinking feeling I realised that was probably the case. DAMN.
Checked out of our Villa, said our farewells and jumped back into the car to return it to Siena. Went into the same parking area (just outside the zone) and just took it REAL easy for the rest of the day. Wandering aimlessly through the lovely streets of Siena. Could not believe the difference at Il Campo where the Palio had run just days before. Such a big square.
We really only took in one site in Siena and that was the Cathedral. Churches are just littered everywhere in almost every place in Italy but this is one not to be missed. Possibly one of the most amazing interiors I have every seen. There are marble inlays and mosaics all over the floor (whereas normally you would see these on the ceiling). The interior columns were alternating strips of white and black marble with the roof a deep blue and covered with stars. Truly amazing. In a side chapel there was a display of music books that would have to have been almost a metre high and the walls were covered with fantastic frescoes. Loved it loved it loved it.
Back to the car and we made it all the way back to the Avis without a single dent, scratch or mishap (unless you count the more than likely ZTL fine). Kissed Guiseppe goodbye and it was onto the train to Venice. The first leg was excruiatingly hot in the train ... the air-con was not working for a good proportion of the 1.5 hour trip to Florence - even the locals were complaining (always a good sign that you're not merely a wimpy tourist). Second half to Venice much better as we were in first class on the fast train. Nice. Even free wine/drinks and nibblies.
Arrived in Venice about 9.30pm and Bobbie was soooo excited. We only had to turn left out of the train station and walk about 5 minutes to our hotel which was good. These bags are too heavy to try and get onto a boat! Hotel Principe is nice .. we have a little step onto terrace and AIR-CONDITIONING. bliss. When the porter opened up our window with the Grand Canal below I thought Bobbie was going to plant a kiss on him - she was jumping up and down with excitement.
Now ... I wonder how I will go with shopping here ... will I blow the carry on baggage limit here?
Sculptures & Shopping
Wednesday, 6 July
Over the last couple of days we have been to both Florence and Siena. Florence has always been one of my favourite places to visit. We caught the train into Florence and unfortunately for us, the stupid ticket validation machine on the platform wasn't working so, when the ticket conductor came along we had to pay a 5 euro fine. All in all, not too bad as we hadn't realised validation was necessary and were using the tickets we had bought for our last trip into Florence (for our Vespa Tour meet up)!
It's a good thing I'm visiting some of the tourist spots anew with Bobbie because I had obviously forgotten all about the queues. We went straight to the Galleria D'Academia where Michelangelo's statue of David is housed. *groan* another enormous line to wait in. Thank goodness for tour hawkers! Joined another and were in within 15 minutes. We had a lot to see in one day and it's worth paying the extra to save some time. Our guide gave us some interesting information but she did waffle on a bit and both Bobbie & I wandered off at various points in her presentation.
We saw the original plaster cast of the Rape of the Sabine Woman (the marble statue we saw later was under restoration) and some brilliant unfinished sculptures by Michelangelo. I remember reading a while ago that Michelangelo believed the sculptures were already in the marble and that all he had to do was set them free. Incredible to see limbs and bodies emerging from these great chunks of marble. David was as always amazing to see .... the veins on his arms and hands, the way that his muscles ripple is incredible. Truly a sculpture not to be missed.
Then it was back to the Duomo, the cathedral that is Florence's icon. I love this building, it is just so beautiful with it's green, white and red marbles. Stood in line for about 20 minutes (there was no way around it) as entrance into the cathedral itself was free. It's only the rest of the buildings around it that cost i.e. Baptistry, Campile (bell tower) and the Dome. Went and bought tickets to enter the baptistry and while waiting in line, a lovely young woman came up and asked 'are you stalking us?' ... it was Tilly & Jo, our Australian friends from Il Palio. Not unusual I guess as most tourists follow the same path. We were all very enthusiastic in our greetings and were actually shooshed by the ticket booth. Ooops. In the baptistry we found the dome within covered with mosaics (done by Venetians) .... stories from Genesis, Christ's life and right in the centre a massive mosaic of Christ himself. Must have been quite something to sit there and worship underneath that.
Went for a walk over to the Ponte Vecchio ... the most famous bridge of Florence, which is door to door jewellery stores. So much it was overwhelming and the heat coming from the display cabinets was a surprise. Guess you have to make it glitter! All I could think of was that I'm a lousy shopper and Jocelyn would be going into meltdown!
Now I know that the thing to buy in Florence is leather. I also know that I have the shopping skills of a cloistered nun. I think I need shopping lessons because I simply could not find anything I wanted to buy and it wasn't for lack of choices. Perhaps too many choices for me. I really need an expert to guide me. I was pretty bummed I couldn't find anything. Enjoyed the process of looking though.
Over the last couple of days we have been to both Florence and Siena. Florence has always been one of my favourite places to visit. We caught the train into Florence and unfortunately for us, the stupid ticket validation machine on the platform wasn't working so, when the ticket conductor came along we had to pay a 5 euro fine. All in all, not too bad as we hadn't realised validation was necessary and were using the tickets we had bought for our last trip into Florence (for our Vespa Tour meet up)!
It's a good thing I'm visiting some of the tourist spots anew with Bobbie because I had obviously forgotten all about the queues. We went straight to the Galleria D'Academia where Michelangelo's statue of David is housed. *groan* another enormous line to wait in. Thank goodness for tour hawkers! Joined another and were in within 15 minutes. We had a lot to see in one day and it's worth paying the extra to save some time. Our guide gave us some interesting information but she did waffle on a bit and both Bobbie & I wandered off at various points in her presentation.
We saw the original plaster cast of the Rape of the Sabine Woman (the marble statue we saw later was under restoration) and some brilliant unfinished sculptures by Michelangelo. I remember reading a while ago that Michelangelo believed the sculptures were already in the marble and that all he had to do was set them free. Incredible to see limbs and bodies emerging from these great chunks of marble. David was as always amazing to see .... the veins on his arms and hands, the way that his muscles ripple is incredible. Truly a sculpture not to be missed.
Then it was back to the Duomo, the cathedral that is Florence's icon. I love this building, it is just so beautiful with it's green, white and red marbles. Stood in line for about 20 minutes (there was no way around it) as entrance into the cathedral itself was free. It's only the rest of the buildings around it that cost i.e. Baptistry, Campile (bell tower) and the Dome. Went and bought tickets to enter the baptistry and while waiting in line, a lovely young woman came up and asked 'are you stalking us?' ... it was Tilly & Jo, our Australian friends from Il Palio. Not unusual I guess as most tourists follow the same path. We were all very enthusiastic in our greetings and were actually shooshed by the ticket booth. Ooops. In the baptistry we found the dome within covered with mosaics (done by Venetians) .... stories from Genesis, Christ's life and right in the centre a massive mosaic of Christ himself. Must have been quite something to sit there and worship underneath that.
Went for a walk over to the Ponte Vecchio ... the most famous bridge of Florence, which is door to door jewellery stores. So much it was overwhelming and the heat coming from the display cabinets was a surprise. Guess you have to make it glitter! All I could think of was that I'm a lousy shopper and Jocelyn would be going into meltdown!
Now I know that the thing to buy in Florence is leather. I also know that I have the shopping skills of a cloistered nun. I think I need shopping lessons because I simply could not find anything I wanted to buy and it wasn't for lack of choices. Perhaps too many choices for me. I really need an expert to guide me. I was pretty bummed I couldn't find anything. Enjoyed the process of looking though.
Tuesday, July 5, 2011
She's a ravishing muppet ...
Ok so it was off to see one of Italy's big three .... the leaning tower of Pisa. I remember going up the tower many many (many) years ago and was hoping that Bobbie would get that experience too. Had read that it was a good idea to prebook tickets to go up the tower as they only let 40 people in it at a time. Tried to book it online last night but then found it needs to be booked AT LEAST 15 days in advance. phew. Went straight to the ticket office on arrival and the first available slot was 4.20pm! So unfortunately walking up the tower was not to be. Bobbie did however do the cheesy shot that ALL tourists do - that 'holding up/pushing over' the tower shot. *groan* I've been to Pisa 4 times now and this is the first time I ever did a shot like that - Bobbie made me.
A friend had told Bobbie about a great restaurant call Pacino 2 in Marina di Marma that serves some of the most fantastic seafood. Drove along the coast and on the way we stopped and had a peek at the beach. Looked sooooo inviting - unfortunately neither of us had bought our togs with us .... we did promise ourselves we'd buy some and come back. Finally reached the elusive restaurant only to find it CLOSED. Arrrghhhhhhhh. Had to settle for a little cafe in the village centre which only had 4 biscuits, 4 rice dishes and gelati for sale. I was assured that the rice dish was nice - so I ordered that. While waiting for it to come to the table, I went to use the Bagno (loo). The Bagno was just a nice little ceramic bowl in the ground. It did have feet positions marked on the bowl though. And there was plumbing (a definate plus). Sat back down to the rice dish (cold). Ugh ... I ate roughly half before I thought I was going to start gagging. Lucky I had Sprite to wash it down. When Bobbie went off to use the bowl, the guy came over and questioned whether it was good. I'm sorry, I had to lie ... it looked like we were the only customers for a while (can't understand why?!) ... yes, but I'm soooo full - too much Sprite! *shudder* The gelati was edible thank goodness so topped off with that!
Bobbie was driving today which is really .... um .... interesting? I particularly like the way she sees the pedestrian crossing about 100 metres ahead and starts waving at people to cross (because it appears she has no intention in stopping). They just look at her waving her hand in an agitated manner with unconcerned expressions. I tried explaining that their level of speed in crossing said road was not directly connected to the increasing speed of her gesturing. She really just looked like a muppet gone wrong!
Thoroughly disenchanted with our no fab meal at the closed restaurant, we thought a bit of retail therapy was the solution. The Finn girls had told us about a fashion outlet not far from our Villa so we made our way back there. I had a bit of a sleep in the car while Bobbie drove on the autostrada (it was more relaxing at least!). Poor Bobbie hadn't eaten much ... in fact, only breakfast, as one mouthful of the *ugh* rice dish was enough for her. She exclaimed "Lisa, I am absolutely ravishing"?! Eh? Don't you mean famished? Couldn't stop laughing for a while ... which is dangerous on the autostrade if you're laughing and tears are filling up your eyes. Stop laughing Bobbie ... I want to live!
Reached the mall in (relative) safety ready to spot some bargains from all the big names. Oh they were bargains alright ... just not enough of a bargain for us. Come on ... isn't expecting a $600 pair of shoes for $50 too much to ask for? I really wanted some Christian Dior shoes *drool* .... or the Armani jacket .... or the Gucci handbag. *sigh* ... a thoroughly depressing hour and half watching Pretty Woman remakes happen before my eyes. Holy Cow ... how many bags do you really need to rub it in that we are having no joy here huh???
We left ... full of vitriol and hate .... and longing. Vinnies anyone?
A friend had told Bobbie about a great restaurant call Pacino 2 in Marina di Marma that serves some of the most fantastic seafood. Drove along the coast and on the way we stopped and had a peek at the beach. Looked sooooo inviting - unfortunately neither of us had bought our togs with us .... we did promise ourselves we'd buy some and come back. Finally reached the elusive restaurant only to find it CLOSED. Arrrghhhhhhhh. Had to settle for a little cafe in the village centre which only had 4 biscuits, 4 rice dishes and gelati for sale. I was assured that the rice dish was nice - so I ordered that. While waiting for it to come to the table, I went to use the Bagno (loo). The Bagno was just a nice little ceramic bowl in the ground. It did have feet positions marked on the bowl though. And there was plumbing (a definate plus). Sat back down to the rice dish (cold). Ugh ... I ate roughly half before I thought I was going to start gagging. Lucky I had Sprite to wash it down. When Bobbie went off to use the bowl, the guy came over and questioned whether it was good. I'm sorry, I had to lie ... it looked like we were the only customers for a while (can't understand why?!) ... yes, but I'm soooo full - too much Sprite! *shudder* The gelati was edible thank goodness so topped off with that!
Bobbie was driving today which is really .... um .... interesting? I particularly like the way she sees the pedestrian crossing about 100 metres ahead and starts waving at people to cross (because it appears she has no intention in stopping). They just look at her waving her hand in an agitated manner with unconcerned expressions. I tried explaining that their level of speed in crossing said road was not directly connected to the increasing speed of her gesturing. She really just looked like a muppet gone wrong!
Thoroughly disenchanted with our no fab meal at the closed restaurant, we thought a bit of retail therapy was the solution. The Finn girls had told us about a fashion outlet not far from our Villa so we made our way back there. I had a bit of a sleep in the car while Bobbie drove on the autostrada (it was more relaxing at least!). Poor Bobbie hadn't eaten much ... in fact, only breakfast, as one mouthful of the *ugh* rice dish was enough for her. She exclaimed "Lisa, I am absolutely ravishing"?! Eh? Don't you mean famished? Couldn't stop laughing for a while ... which is dangerous on the autostrade if you're laughing and tears are filling up your eyes. Stop laughing Bobbie ... I want to live!
Reached the mall in (relative) safety ready to spot some bargains from all the big names. Oh they were bargains alright ... just not enough of a bargain for us. Come on ... isn't expecting a $600 pair of shoes for $50 too much to ask for? I really wanted some Christian Dior shoes *drool* .... or the Armani jacket .... or the Gucci handbag. *sigh* ... a thoroughly depressing hour and half watching Pretty Woman remakes happen before my eyes. Holy Cow ... how many bags do you really need to rub it in that we are having no joy here huh???
We left ... full of vitriol and hate .... and longing. Vinnies anyone?
Monday, July 4, 2011
I think I'm Italian.
Yesterday was a super relax day. We didn't go anywhere and we didn't do anything but lounge around. I had woken with a headache so adventure was not the prime objective of the day. While I napped inside, away from the bright warm sunlight, Bobbie chilled by the pool in the Tuscan sun. It was apparently so pleasant ... she fell asleep. Luckily she wasn't burnt to a crisp though. We did venture out around lunchtime to try and find something to eat but being Sunday, all the little shops in the nearby villages were closed. Back to the Villa and it was coffee for Bobbie and toasted stale bread for me. Hey, stale bread makes great toast - super crunchy! Later on we went to dinner at the restaurant down the road and it was the BEST meal we have had so far!! A huge difference in the price between that and what we had paid in Rome. The Finnish women staying across from us were there as well (they had walked the 3kms while we drove) and as we finished they came up to us and asked whether we had room in our car ... an offer of sharing some wine was made (as we were neighbours) and a deal was struck. Nikki & Sari come to Tuscany every year and this time they brought their friend Ricca. All three ladies were lovely and laughs were shared. They are in Tuscany primarily for the relaxation and the outlet shopping opportunities. Wonder if we'll get time to do that too?! I told them my 'secret' plans for the next day (today) ... in Finnish .... so that Bobbie would be none the wiser. It was very late when we finally excused ourselves and got to bed.
So this morning I was up early ... put the coffee on so that Bobbie could be placated for waking earlier than preferred. Plonked a gift bag in front with the surprise inside. I had stealthily (yes, I can do that sometimes) bought a little Vespa keyring at a market we walked through and as we were going on a Vespa ride today, figured it was appropriate. I had also had a shirt made for Bobbie with the phrase "Non Sparate!!" which means 'don't shoot'. In the course of our research we had come across an iphone app that contained 'essential' travel phrases .... and Non Sparate was one of the them. Another was 'Quelle droghe e non sono mie" (these drugs are not mine!). So Bobbie was dressed in her essential Italian shirt and off we went. Caught the train into Florence and then walked to the meeting point where we boarded a minivan for transfer back outside of Florence!
After 2 laps of the dog bone road ... our training was declared complete and we were out on the road. The whole group we were with were American ... we were the odd/normal ones of the crowd. One lady almost collided with a tree on the very first corner and I was behind her. At the first opportunity, I moved up in the line! We made about 6/7 stops during the day where we got a little history of the area we were scootering around in ... i.e. Chianti. Stopped for a snack of some Schiacciata Pizza - a salted focaccia sandwich with cheese in the middle (ooohhhh my, it was delicious). Gorgeous scenery of vineyards and olive groves scattered over all the hills. Villas popping up like daisies on tiny village roads. We stopped at a 16th century villa where we had a tour of the cellars and heard how the wine was made. This particular property has been owned by the same family for over 600 years and are considered royalty because one of the ancestors was a Pope. The Corsini family. The tour was utterly fascinating and I'm sure many wine drinkers will have appreciated just how much time goes into the production. We enjoyed lunch there where we had the opportunity to taste the wines and olive oil they produce there. Delicious food ... and Bobbie said the wine was good too!
Rode our Vespas through one of the towns ... with traffic ... and pedestrians stepping out in front of us. Do our riding skills not scream TOURISTS - BEWARE ... RUN FOR YOUR LIFE? Some of them just had no idea and were taking their life in the hands in front of us. I was totally loving gunning all 50cc of my vespa power and leaning into some of the corners. Bobbie says I drive like an Italian now ... but I think I have a long way to go if I'm to ride a vespa like a true Italian. I felt pretty daring though - I'm sure that counts.
One of our last stops saw us enjoying some gelati ... yum yum yum. Love gelati - wish I could bring it home. After almost 6 hours of riding and eating it was time to board the bus to take us back to Florence. Who would have thought riding a Vespa woud be so exhausting.
Going to bed now ... and dream about my motorscooter ... broom broom
So this morning I was up early ... put the coffee on so that Bobbie could be placated for waking earlier than preferred. Plonked a gift bag in front with the surprise inside. I had stealthily (yes, I can do that sometimes) bought a little Vespa keyring at a market we walked through and as we were going on a Vespa ride today, figured it was appropriate. I had also had a shirt made for Bobbie with the phrase "Non Sparate!!" which means 'don't shoot'. In the course of our research we had come across an iphone app that contained 'essential' travel phrases .... and Non Sparate was one of the them. Another was 'Quelle droghe e non sono mie" (these drugs are not mine!). So Bobbie was dressed in her essential Italian shirt and off we went. Caught the train into Florence and then walked to the meeting point where we boarded a minivan for transfer back outside of Florence!
After 2 laps of the dog bone road ... our training was declared complete and we were out on the road. The whole group we were with were American ... we were the odd/normal ones of the crowd. One lady almost collided with a tree on the very first corner and I was behind her. At the first opportunity, I moved up in the line! We made about 6/7 stops during the day where we got a little history of the area we were scootering around in ... i.e. Chianti. Stopped for a snack of some Schiacciata Pizza - a salted focaccia sandwich with cheese in the middle (ooohhhh my, it was delicious). Gorgeous scenery of vineyards and olive groves scattered over all the hills. Villas popping up like daisies on tiny village roads. We stopped at a 16th century villa where we had a tour of the cellars and heard how the wine was made. This particular property has been owned by the same family for over 600 years and are considered royalty because one of the ancestors was a Pope. The Corsini family. The tour was utterly fascinating and I'm sure many wine drinkers will have appreciated just how much time goes into the production. We enjoyed lunch there where we had the opportunity to taste the wines and olive oil they produce there. Delicious food ... and Bobbie said the wine was good too!
Rode our Vespas through one of the towns ... with traffic ... and pedestrians stepping out in front of us. Do our riding skills not scream TOURISTS - BEWARE ... RUN FOR YOUR LIFE? Some of them just had no idea and were taking their life in the hands in front of us. I was totally loving gunning all 50cc of my vespa power and leaning into some of the corners. Bobbie says I drive like an Italian now ... but I think I have a long way to go if I'm to ride a vespa like a true Italian. I felt pretty daring though - I'm sure that counts.
One of our last stops saw us enjoying some gelati ... yum yum yum. Love gelati - wish I could bring it home. After almost 6 hours of riding and eating it was time to board the bus to take us back to Florence. Who would have thought riding a Vespa woud be so exhausting.
Going to bed now ... and dream about my motorscooter ... broom broom
Sunday, July 3, 2011
OCA WINS!!
Saturday, 2 July
Before coming over Bobbie and I had done some research and found out that we would be in Tuscany around a very significant date. 2nd July (not it's not my birthday .... 7 more for that!). It's the date of Il Palio in Siena, an ancient horse race around Il Campo - the main square of Siena.
We ummed and ahhhed about going, even yesterday, because the thought of standing for hours and hours in summer heat was daunting. However, after consulting with the Villa owner and another friend ;) we decided it wasn't to be missed.
The weather couldn't have been more perfect. A beautiful overcast day with a pleasant warmth. Off we went. Siena is an old town and as such had beautiful walls enclosing it but those same beautiful walls made it difficult to navigate. We were trying to find some free parking but in the end settled on the first pay parking garage we could find. You know those parking bay lines that indicate where to place your car ... well, they mean very little over here. So many cars were parked across the line and therefore took two spaces. Managed to find a little one for Nello right up in a corner. Reversed into it and changed our minds that we really should have gone in front first ... in order to make it less stressful to get out if it was busy, because the turning circle was too tight if we had to deal with other traffic. We struggled ... we should have left the damn car in the reversed position. An Italian family took pity on us and the father hopped in and took over. While we had been slowly inching our way in to the tight spot, HE was backwards and forwards like a complete NUT JOB. I felt physically ill watching the insane parking moves he was making! Finally it was parked to his satisfaction and we said 'Thanks'. Nello's backend was LITERALLY 3cms from the car next to us. We waited until the family left and slowly, but surely straightened it up. Good Grief what a nightmare!
Wandered about Siena for a very short period, grabbed a bit of lunch and some snacks and then it was down to Il Campo. Our Villa owner, Benedetta, had said to arrive at least before 4. There were already people picking out prime positions around the inside of the track. Benches were set up around the edge of the square and then in the centre there were barricades for the mosh pit. The horses run in the track between the mosh pit and the bench seating. We were in the mosh pit. Sat down around 2.30pm on the high end corner of the square with the idea of waiting it out and taking turns in getting up and going for a break. Met a lovely couple of Australian ladies Jo & Tilly (mother and daughter) who were seated in their position just behind us. The time was passed very nicely with their company and in the course of conversation discovered that Bobbie & Jo knew many of the same people. How would you be? Other side of the world, a chance encounter at one of the biggest events in Italy and we meet someone that knows people one of us knew! Small, small world! Il Campo filled up quickly and many of our surrounding companions were amused at my shrieks of fright as cannons were progressively fired. I think the first one saw me jumping from a seated position to one above my head! Very amusing for everyone!
So at around 4.30pm, the mosh pit was barricade closed ... we were there for the duration now! The historic parade started at about 5.00pm ........ and didn't finish until 7.30pm. It was the longest, most drawn out parade I have every experienced! The crowd was totally into it. The tension was almost palpable. Cheers were heard when some horsemen came out brandishing swords and the Italian family in front of us were highly amusing as they gesticulated, as only Italians can do, wildly with pure excitement. They were going OFF! Each contrada (area of Siena) that had been lucky enough to draw a position in the race parade through ... throwing their flags to the delight on the crowd. The family behind us were explaining bits and pieces and informed us that one of the contrada would not be competing as their horse had died in the trials the previous day. Why don't they just get another horse ... and with the most serious sobre face I have seen the young man declared "It is destiny". Oh my ... don't smile Lisa, this is SERIOUS! The first few flag throwing demos were cool ... then all Aussies were over it. The Il Palio silk banner made it's appearance at the end of the parade (thank goodness) to crazy screams.
THEN the horses appeared. It could not have gotten more insane. As the horses lined up there was plenty of 'shhhing' going on. The four of us looked incredulously at each other because 10s of 1000s of people were then in the mosh pit with us ... and it was complete SILENCE! You could have heard a pin drop on the other side of this huge square. It was incredible and barely believable! The cannon went and the crowd went wild, crazy wild. The jockeys ride bareback 3 times around the track and it is so tight around the corners that it takes precision to get around safely. The second corner which I could see clearly saw a collison of horses and jockeys while the third, which was just behind us was the sight of a sickening thump as the rider slid off his horse banging into the wooden pole and barricade while his horse thumped against the wall. Horrible sound but we found out later that both rider and horse were ok. The excitment of the crowd went into overload when the winner crossed the line ... OCA (the goose). People poured onto the track and we could not believe we had just witnessed it. TOTALLY WORTH IT. Soooo much fun.
We enjoyed Jo & Tilly's company so much, we congo-lined it out of the square (cause that's the only way we weren't losing each other in the crowd) to a bar and sat down and had a couple of drinks. Swapped phone numbers, emails etc. and promised an appearance on our blog :)
It was really dark by now and time to go ... said our farewells, maybe we'll meet Jo & Tilly in Venice in a few days with any luck and Bobbie can share a Bellini at Harry's Bar with them! I'll walk them all home safely!! Getting out of Siena was a nightmare, it was the first time our confidence in Guiseppe was shaken .... ended up driving through a street party to a few more wild gesticulations from the partygoers. Hit a bin with the side mirror ... well, it was that or hit the baby in a pram which the father did not see fit to move out of my way! It was very stressful and when we finally made it out I was a bit teary. But made it home by midnight ... safe.
Before coming over Bobbie and I had done some research and found out that we would be in Tuscany around a very significant date. 2nd July (not it's not my birthday .... 7 more for that!). It's the date of Il Palio in Siena, an ancient horse race around Il Campo - the main square of Siena.
We ummed and ahhhed about going, even yesterday, because the thought of standing for hours and hours in summer heat was daunting. However, after consulting with the Villa owner and another friend ;) we decided it wasn't to be missed.
The weather couldn't have been more perfect. A beautiful overcast day with a pleasant warmth. Off we went. Siena is an old town and as such had beautiful walls enclosing it but those same beautiful walls made it difficult to navigate. We were trying to find some free parking but in the end settled on the first pay parking garage we could find. You know those parking bay lines that indicate where to place your car ... well, they mean very little over here. So many cars were parked across the line and therefore took two spaces. Managed to find a little one for Nello right up in a corner. Reversed into it and changed our minds that we really should have gone in front first ... in order to make it less stressful to get out if it was busy, because the turning circle was too tight if we had to deal with other traffic. We struggled ... we should have left the damn car in the reversed position. An Italian family took pity on us and the father hopped in and took over. While we had been slowly inching our way in to the tight spot, HE was backwards and forwards like a complete NUT JOB. I felt physically ill watching the insane parking moves he was making! Finally it was parked to his satisfaction and we said 'Thanks'. Nello's backend was LITERALLY 3cms from the car next to us. We waited until the family left and slowly, but surely straightened it up. Good Grief what a nightmare!
Wandered about Siena for a very short period, grabbed a bit of lunch and some snacks and then it was down to Il Campo. Our Villa owner, Benedetta, had said to arrive at least before 4. There were already people picking out prime positions around the inside of the track. Benches were set up around the edge of the square and then in the centre there were barricades for the mosh pit. The horses run in the track between the mosh pit and the bench seating. We were in the mosh pit. Sat down around 2.30pm on the high end corner of the square with the idea of waiting it out and taking turns in getting up and going for a break. Met a lovely couple of Australian ladies Jo & Tilly (mother and daughter) who were seated in their position just behind us. The time was passed very nicely with their company and in the course of conversation discovered that Bobbie & Jo knew many of the same people. How would you be? Other side of the world, a chance encounter at one of the biggest events in Italy and we meet someone that knows people one of us knew! Small, small world! Il Campo filled up quickly and many of our surrounding companions were amused at my shrieks of fright as cannons were progressively fired. I think the first one saw me jumping from a seated position to one above my head! Very amusing for everyone!
So at around 4.30pm, the mosh pit was barricade closed ... we were there for the duration now! The historic parade started at about 5.00pm ........ and didn't finish until 7.30pm. It was the longest, most drawn out parade I have every experienced! The crowd was totally into it. The tension was almost palpable. Cheers were heard when some horsemen came out brandishing swords and the Italian family in front of us were highly amusing as they gesticulated, as only Italians can do, wildly with pure excitement. They were going OFF! Each contrada (area of Siena) that had been lucky enough to draw a position in the race parade through ... throwing their flags to the delight on the crowd. The family behind us were explaining bits and pieces and informed us that one of the contrada would not be competing as their horse had died in the trials the previous day. Why don't they just get another horse ... and with the most serious sobre face I have seen the young man declared "It is destiny". Oh my ... don't smile Lisa, this is SERIOUS! The first few flag throwing demos were cool ... then all Aussies were over it. The Il Palio silk banner made it's appearance at the end of the parade (thank goodness) to crazy screams.
THEN the horses appeared. It could not have gotten more insane. As the horses lined up there was plenty of 'shhhing' going on. The four of us looked incredulously at each other because 10s of 1000s of people were then in the mosh pit with us ... and it was complete SILENCE! You could have heard a pin drop on the other side of this huge square. It was incredible and barely believable! The cannon went and the crowd went wild, crazy wild. The jockeys ride bareback 3 times around the track and it is so tight around the corners that it takes precision to get around safely. The second corner which I could see clearly saw a collison of horses and jockeys while the third, which was just behind us was the sight of a sickening thump as the rider slid off his horse banging into the wooden pole and barricade while his horse thumped against the wall. Horrible sound but we found out later that both rider and horse were ok. The excitment of the crowd went into overload when the winner crossed the line ... OCA (the goose). People poured onto the track and we could not believe we had just witnessed it. TOTALLY WORTH IT. Soooo much fun.
We enjoyed Jo & Tilly's company so much, we congo-lined it out of the square (cause that's the only way we weren't losing each other in the crowd) to a bar and sat down and had a couple of drinks. Swapped phone numbers, emails etc. and promised an appearance on our blog :)
It was really dark by now and time to go ... said our farewells, maybe we'll meet Jo & Tilly in Venice in a few days with any luck and Bobbie can share a Bellini at Harry's Bar with them! I'll walk them all home safely!! Getting out of Siena was a nightmare, it was the first time our confidence in Guiseppe was shaken .... ended up driving through a street party to a few more wild gesticulations from the partygoers. Hit a bin with the side mirror ... well, it was that or hit the baby in a pram which the father did not see fit to move out of my way! It was very stressful and when we finally made it out I was a bit teary. But made it home by midnight ... safe.
Putting my life in Bob's hands and some crazy parking!
Friday, 1 July
OK ... I think I've got the hang of this driving on the opposite side of the road thing ... just not sure I've got the whole Italian mentality of how aggressive to drive. No wonder there are so many accidents with foreigners in Australia - they drive like absolute lunatics over here!!
Bobbie figured it was her turn to drive Nello today so off we went heading for Pistoia and Lucca (which I thought was pretty ambitious trying to squeeze two places into one day). Anyway, besides the constant drifting to the right ... and she mocked me *ha!* ... we found our way to Pistoia with a little help from our lovely electronic buddy, Guiseppe! LOVING GUISEPPE SICK! Came across the round/squareabout from hell and Bobbie took it wide (we were going for the 4th exit) ... cars were zooming in, cars were basically everywhere. I have both feet pressing a relief impression into the floor and Bobbie is ... well, I'd like to say muttering - but it wasn't muttering, more like terrified screeching (with some expletives added for expression). I've raised my voice and saying "this way Bob, this way ..". Can I just say, that was ..... S.C.A.R.Y. Followed the first signs to a parking bay where we both had to deep breath to prevent passing out from hyperventilation!! phew ... what an adrenalin rush.
Walked into the centre of town, got a little help from a passerby. The place was almost deserted! Felt like we were the only tourists in town. There were a couple more but seriously no more than a dozen. Wandered into the main piazza and went into the museum (as directed by the Lonely Planet guide). Now here, we really were the ONLY people, besides the cashiers, in the museum. We had the whole museum to ourself. Wandered around looking at art work that dated from the 14th & 15th century. I could not believe we were inches from this priceless works and there was NO security... nothing! We couldn't help but laugh at some of it ... Bobbie thought the Baby Jesus getting breastfed was a giggle ... but I think the best one was when Baby Jesus had the body of a chubby little baby but with the head of a man .... creepy!
While we were in the museum, it had started to rain ... WHAT? Rain in Italy - it does that? Neither of us had bought any of the 4 umbrellas we bought in London so had to sit out the worst of it. When it lessened up, we ran for it across the square. I'm calling out 'Run Forrest Run' ... then all of a sudden Forrest stopped ... she lost her shoe. Cinderella as I will now dub her was wearing thongs and as she ran across the cobbled ground, one had suctioned on and she went about 6 steps before realising. Very funny. Cinderella and I made it back to the car from memory and I was now the designated driver again!
Drove into Lucca and tried finding a parking space .. was having no real luck with the big parking areas so quickly swung Nello into a diagonal park along with everyone else on the street. A man was standing there and indicated we could park further in. As we got out I asked where the parking area was and he indicated we could park exactly where we were. When I asked how much, we stumbled through the translation minefield and figured out what it would cost. He asked if we were American so I corrected him and introduced ourselves. His name was Franko. Franko led us to the ticket dispenser and even contributed some change. He made sure we were aware of what time we needed to be back and then farewelled us with the double-cheek kiss ... Italian kiss count up to 3 (ok 4 ... a thank you kiss and then a Ciao kiss - I think he was cashing in!)
Wandered around the streets of Lucca, visited a couple of churches one of which had a wooden representation of Christ (Volto Santo) that legend said was carved by Nicodemus but has since been identified as a 13th century fake. Still old tho ... and they still parade it around town on 13th September every year apparently. Stumbled across another where the facade was a mosiac - amazing. Lucca was just lovely, very picturesque place to visit. We hired a couple of bikes and cycled a good proportion of the city walls ... without the risk of being hit by a car/motorbike because the walls were 10 metres above the city level.
It was late in the day so we decided to stay in Lucca and have dinner as it was such a lovely place. Found a little restaurant and promptly sat down. There was a grumpy dude sitting by the doorway and he let the boss know we were there. Papa came along and took our order and scuttled away. Pretty soon tho, we met Mama. Oh dear, Mama was the generalisation of a grumpy old Italian woman! Whoa! She plonked our paper placemats in front of us and practically threw the knife and fork on top. Mama's service was a little terse to say the least. Bobbie was concerned that she was going to spit on our food, she was so happy. The meal came, Papa forgot my dinner (but not my salad) and I couldn't be bothered asking for more. At least the food was good, Bob said it was probably the best lasagne she'd every had, and we found no extra uncalled for spittle on it. People watching was fun too ... especially watching the pizza delivery guy balancing 6 or so pizzas on his arm while riding his bike.
The journey home was interesting ... it was an hour to our villa and Bobbie had consumed almost a litre of wine. No, no, I'll be right. Three quarters the way into the journey and she stopped talking to me ... apparently needing every ounce of mental will power to control her bladder. There were moments when she asked if it was ok to use my $20 Myer handbag ... and that was met with a flat no. It started to worry me when her eyes starting glassing over and then squeezing shut tight. As we pulled into the driveway, shrieks of "let me out, stop here" could be heard. She bolted up to our Villa, past the Finns staying across from us with a quick "Hi" and disappeared into the privy! I came in to gasps of enormous relief.
OK ... I think I've got the hang of this driving on the opposite side of the road thing ... just not sure I've got the whole Italian mentality of how aggressive to drive. No wonder there are so many accidents with foreigners in Australia - they drive like absolute lunatics over here!!
Bobbie figured it was her turn to drive Nello today so off we went heading for Pistoia and Lucca (which I thought was pretty ambitious trying to squeeze two places into one day). Anyway, besides the constant drifting to the right ... and she mocked me *ha!* ... we found our way to Pistoia with a little help from our lovely electronic buddy, Guiseppe! LOVING GUISEPPE SICK! Came across the round/squareabout from hell and Bobbie took it wide (we were going for the 4th exit) ... cars were zooming in, cars were basically everywhere. I have both feet pressing a relief impression into the floor and Bobbie is ... well, I'd like to say muttering - but it wasn't muttering, more like terrified screeching (with some expletives added for expression). I've raised my voice and saying "this way Bob, this way ..". Can I just say, that was ..... S.C.A.R.Y. Followed the first signs to a parking bay where we both had to deep breath to prevent passing out from hyperventilation!! phew ... what an adrenalin rush.
Walked into the centre of town, got a little help from a passerby. The place was almost deserted! Felt like we were the only tourists in town. There were a couple more but seriously no more than a dozen. Wandered into the main piazza and went into the museum (as directed by the Lonely Planet guide). Now here, we really were the ONLY people, besides the cashiers, in the museum. We had the whole museum to ourself. Wandered around looking at art work that dated from the 14th & 15th century. I could not believe we were inches from this priceless works and there was NO security... nothing! We couldn't help but laugh at some of it ... Bobbie thought the Baby Jesus getting breastfed was a giggle ... but I think the best one was when Baby Jesus had the body of a chubby little baby but with the head of a man .... creepy!
While we were in the museum, it had started to rain ... WHAT? Rain in Italy - it does that? Neither of us had bought any of the 4 umbrellas we bought in London so had to sit out the worst of it. When it lessened up, we ran for it across the square. I'm calling out 'Run Forrest Run' ... then all of a sudden Forrest stopped ... she lost her shoe. Cinderella as I will now dub her was wearing thongs and as she ran across the cobbled ground, one had suctioned on and she went about 6 steps before realising. Very funny. Cinderella and I made it back to the car from memory and I was now the designated driver again!
Drove into Lucca and tried finding a parking space .. was having no real luck with the big parking areas so quickly swung Nello into a diagonal park along with everyone else on the street. A man was standing there and indicated we could park further in. As we got out I asked where the parking area was and he indicated we could park exactly where we were. When I asked how much, we stumbled through the translation minefield and figured out what it would cost. He asked if we were American so I corrected him and introduced ourselves. His name was Franko. Franko led us to the ticket dispenser and even contributed some change. He made sure we were aware of what time we needed to be back and then farewelled us with the double-cheek kiss ... Italian kiss count up to 3 (ok 4 ... a thank you kiss and then a Ciao kiss - I think he was cashing in!)
Wandered around the streets of Lucca, visited a couple of churches one of which had a wooden representation of Christ (Volto Santo) that legend said was carved by Nicodemus but has since been identified as a 13th century fake. Still old tho ... and they still parade it around town on 13th September every year apparently. Stumbled across another where the facade was a mosiac - amazing. Lucca was just lovely, very picturesque place to visit. We hired a couple of bikes and cycled a good proportion of the city walls ... without the risk of being hit by a car/motorbike because the walls were 10 metres above the city level.
It was late in the day so we decided to stay in Lucca and have dinner as it was such a lovely place. Found a little restaurant and promptly sat down. There was a grumpy dude sitting by the doorway and he let the boss know we were there. Papa came along and took our order and scuttled away. Pretty soon tho, we met Mama. Oh dear, Mama was the generalisation of a grumpy old Italian woman! Whoa! She plonked our paper placemats in front of us and practically threw the knife and fork on top. Mama's service was a little terse to say the least. Bobbie was concerned that she was going to spit on our food, she was so happy. The meal came, Papa forgot my dinner (but not my salad) and I couldn't be bothered asking for more. At least the food was good, Bob said it was probably the best lasagne she'd every had, and we found no extra uncalled for spittle on it. People watching was fun too ... especially watching the pizza delivery guy balancing 6 or so pizzas on his arm while riding his bike.
The journey home was interesting ... it was an hour to our villa and Bobbie had consumed almost a litre of wine. No, no, I'll be right. Three quarters the way into the journey and she stopped talking to me ... apparently needing every ounce of mental will power to control her bladder. There were moments when she asked if it was ok to use my $20 Myer handbag ... and that was met with a flat no. It started to worry me when her eyes starting glassing over and then squeezing shut tight. As we pulled into the driveway, shrieks of "let me out, stop here" could be heard. She bolted up to our Villa, past the Finns staying across from us with a quick "Hi" and disappeared into the privy! I came in to gasps of enormous relief.
Friday, July 1, 2011
Francesco, Nello & one VERY hungry travelling companion!
Off to the Railway Station we went to find out what time the train was to Siena which is where we were to pick up our hire car for Tuscany. The line was an hour long and we weren't even sure it was the right line! Luckily for the the guys behind the counter it was and we were given the time of our departure.
Little did we know the journey to our destination was going to take pretty much the whole day. Jumped on the train and found a little closed off cabin with a guy stretched out sleeping across one side. We weren't exactly quiet as we were trying to figure out how the heck we were supposed to get our very heavy bags up onto the baggage rack 6 feet above us. Wasn't gonig to happen obviously with both of us at 5.4! The bags got seats to themselves. While I went off to see if I could find better seating arrangements our sleepy head companion had arisen and starting chatting to Bobbie. He was only young, maybe mid 20s and his name was Francesco. Now Francesco had a smattering of English and started out with asking us where to go in Australia. Figured out he wanted to see aborigines and he asked if we had seen them ... um, yeah. He wants to go to on an Australian holiday for 2 years and was curious to see where the best place to go was. Whipped out my notepad and wrote down the usual things in the Northern Territory .... and drew a map of what part of Australia it was. It was an interesting map :)
Talked to Francesco for quite a while but trying to find words that both of us understood to overcome the language barrier was exhausting ... despite the fact that we were communicating fairly well. Turned out Francesco was getting off at the same stop as us. At least we weren't going to miss it! As we chugged along on the train we passed fields of sunflowers with their heads all turned toward the sun and fields upon fields of sugarcane. It was so reminiscent of places in North Queensland, like Innisfail and Ingham, I could almost imagine for a time that that's where we were. 1.5 hours later *sigh* we were at Chuisi (pronounced Choosy). Francesco had told us our next train would leave from platform 2 and then he checked the timetable to make sure what time it came. Very sweet. Showed me the timings and then he said his farewells with a traditional Ciao and double cheeked kiss. Italian kiss count is up to two.
Boarded our next train to Siena and finally about another 1.5 hours we arrived at a very confusing train station. We thought the hire car would be picked up at the station but no such luck. Asked a guy if he spoke English "No" (oh crap) ... so I had to try ask in Italian how to get to the right street for the car hire. Oh, Bus 17 ... ok, bought some tickets ... and waited 10 minutes. Instant gratification was not forthcoming (and it was getting late in the day .. and secretly I was starting to panic that the office would be closing) so we caught a taxi.
It was exhausting organising the hire car and getting directions to where our Villa was ... not as close as to be convenient. One guy hadn't even heard of the place (uh oh). Were starting to feel very worried about the whole driving in Italy with no idea where we were going and without a GPS ... so we hired one. Named it Guiseppe and away we went. I drove first and within the first 5 minutes we were both loving Guiseppe to death. LOVE LOVE LOVE GUISEPPE!! Bobbie baptised Guiseppe with a kiss (well, we are in Italy). Nobody should complain about the roundabouts in Canberra every again ... they have some whacked out roundabouts here ... and going round them in the opposite direction is certainly an experience. Decided we would be the Nonnas of the Italian Road and took it easy on the highway and let everyone pass us, besides I still had to correct the whole drifting to the right issue. Also named our Nissan Micra Nello. There were a few times where Bobbie was enthusiastically encouraging me (!) to get back to the left. Beware of Deers jumping out onto the road was a regular road sign *what the?* Had our first taste of the Autostrade .. where you can legally drive at 150 kph ... we didn't, being newbies and all. Finally reached our Villa about an hour later.
Gorgeous scenery around the Villa and met the local inhabitants ... the man eating mosquitoes of Tuscany. Damn those beasties are vicious! Did not think we would need the bug spray so guess what our next purchase at the supermarket will include?
It had been a long day of travelling and we were hungry, Bobbie more so than me because I had grabbed a plate of salad in Rome at the train station, she hadn't eaten since Breakfast ... and it wasn't pretty! ;) Couldn't find the restaurant recommended to us by the Villa Manager so kept driving and then asked Guiseppe to find us something. Bobbie picked some random 'restaurant' ... and we ended up in what looked like the sleezy side of town. NUP ... tried a couple more with no luck. Guiseppe was letting us down. OK, so Guiseppe take us into Reggello (nearest biggish size town) ... and lo and behold we found something on our way. Parked Nello and sat down to eat. Ordered in staccato Italian which was obviously amusing to the waitress Bobbie said. Oh well, she understood. Filled our bellies and instructed Guiseppe to take us home again.
There's no air-con in our Villa .... it was pretty hot yesterday and with mosquitoes and other assorted bugs vying for a taste of our blood, we had to leave the doors shut. Not the best sleep we've had but it's lovely and cool in the morning. Even opened the curtains to see a little brown squirrel staring at me. Does he want a piece of me as well I ask?
Little did we know the journey to our destination was going to take pretty much the whole day. Jumped on the train and found a little closed off cabin with a guy stretched out sleeping across one side. We weren't exactly quiet as we were trying to figure out how the heck we were supposed to get our very heavy bags up onto the baggage rack 6 feet above us. Wasn't gonig to happen obviously with both of us at 5.4! The bags got seats to themselves. While I went off to see if I could find better seating arrangements our sleepy head companion had arisen and starting chatting to Bobbie. He was only young, maybe mid 20s and his name was Francesco. Now Francesco had a smattering of English and started out with asking us where to go in Australia. Figured out he wanted to see aborigines and he asked if we had seen them ... um, yeah. He wants to go to on an Australian holiday for 2 years and was curious to see where the best place to go was. Whipped out my notepad and wrote down the usual things in the Northern Territory .... and drew a map of what part of Australia it was. It was an interesting map :)
Talked to Francesco for quite a while but trying to find words that both of us understood to overcome the language barrier was exhausting ... despite the fact that we were communicating fairly well. Turned out Francesco was getting off at the same stop as us. At least we weren't going to miss it! As we chugged along on the train we passed fields of sunflowers with their heads all turned toward the sun and fields upon fields of sugarcane. It was so reminiscent of places in North Queensland, like Innisfail and Ingham, I could almost imagine for a time that that's where we were. 1.5 hours later *sigh* we were at Chuisi (pronounced Choosy). Francesco had told us our next train would leave from platform 2 and then he checked the timetable to make sure what time it came. Very sweet. Showed me the timings and then he said his farewells with a traditional Ciao and double cheeked kiss. Italian kiss count is up to two.
Boarded our next train to Siena and finally about another 1.5 hours we arrived at a very confusing train station. We thought the hire car would be picked up at the station but no such luck. Asked a guy if he spoke English "No" (oh crap) ... so I had to try ask in Italian how to get to the right street for the car hire. Oh, Bus 17 ... ok, bought some tickets ... and waited 10 minutes. Instant gratification was not forthcoming (and it was getting late in the day .. and secretly I was starting to panic that the office would be closing) so we caught a taxi.
It was exhausting organising the hire car and getting directions to where our Villa was ... not as close as to be convenient. One guy hadn't even heard of the place (uh oh). Were starting to feel very worried about the whole driving in Italy with no idea where we were going and without a GPS ... so we hired one. Named it Guiseppe and away we went. I drove first and within the first 5 minutes we were both loving Guiseppe to death. LOVE LOVE LOVE GUISEPPE!! Bobbie baptised Guiseppe with a kiss (well, we are in Italy). Nobody should complain about the roundabouts in Canberra every again ... they have some whacked out roundabouts here ... and going round them in the opposite direction is certainly an experience. Decided we would be the Nonnas of the Italian Road and took it easy on the highway and let everyone pass us, besides I still had to correct the whole drifting to the right issue. Also named our Nissan Micra Nello. There were a few times where Bobbie was enthusiastically encouraging me (!) to get back to the left. Beware of Deers jumping out onto the road was a regular road sign *what the?* Had our first taste of the Autostrade .. where you can legally drive at 150 kph ... we didn't, being newbies and all. Finally reached our Villa about an hour later.
Gorgeous scenery around the Villa and met the local inhabitants ... the man eating mosquitoes of Tuscany. Damn those beasties are vicious! Did not think we would need the bug spray so guess what our next purchase at the supermarket will include?
It had been a long day of travelling and we were hungry, Bobbie more so than me because I had grabbed a plate of salad in Rome at the train station, she hadn't eaten since Breakfast ... and it wasn't pretty! ;) Couldn't find the restaurant recommended to us by the Villa Manager so kept driving and then asked Guiseppe to find us something. Bobbie picked some random 'restaurant' ... and we ended up in what looked like the sleezy side of town. NUP ... tried a couple more with no luck. Guiseppe was letting us down. OK, so Guiseppe take us into Reggello (nearest biggish size town) ... and lo and behold we found something on our way. Parked Nello and sat down to eat. Ordered in staccato Italian which was obviously amusing to the waitress Bobbie said. Oh well, she understood. Filled our bellies and instructed Guiseppe to take us home again.
There's no air-con in our Villa .... it was pretty hot yesterday and with mosquitoes and other assorted bugs vying for a taste of our blood, we had to leave the doors shut. Not the best sleep we've had but it's lovely and cool in the morning. Even opened the curtains to see a little brown squirrel staring at me. Does he want a piece of me as well I ask?
Wednesday, June 29, 2011
Our last full day in Rome
Our last day in Rome because our Tuscan adventure begins. Decided today was going to be an easier, slower paced day ... pffft, I don't think Rome understands what should be easier and slower.
I've been to Rome 4 times now and never been to the Pantheon which is one of Romes oldest temples, dating to around 120 AD. That was where we headed first. Jumped on the right bus and only had to wait 4 stops. Got talking to some young Aussie guys and giving them some tips ... and missed our stop .... by a long way. In fact, we went to the very end of the bus route. Stayed on the bus and waited for it to go back the opposite way.
Finally got to our destination: The Pantheon. Walking past the typical roman columns into the bottleneck that is the entrance (there's only one way in/out), your eye is drawn upward to a massive dome with the best skylight I've ever seen! Light was streaming in and my camera just couldn't do it justice. The multi-coloured marble was a feast for the eyes and as I leaned against a column, a positive and cooling tactile experience was had after standing outside in the heat. Cannot believe how many tourists are burnt to a crisp - too easy to spot. We have been slathering on the suncream and I've still got a watch tan on my wrist!
After the Pantheon we side stepped over to the Piazza Navona, probably the most famous of Rome's piazzas. Market stalls line the centre of the piazza and restaurants are right around the perimeter. Beautiful water fountain in the centre which I believe is sculpted to represent the four great rivers of the world. Very hard to get a decent photo with all these damn sunburnt tourists hanging about! Walked past a couple of restaurants and made our decision on which one to eat/drink at based not on the menu prices (for that would be smart) but on the amount of water misting from the room of their alfresco umbrellas. Oh my ... it was divine. People watching was never so much fun. Sweaty red faced visitors, grasping their water bottles and desperately looking for shade ... and all this was witnessed from the comfort of our little table as the mist gently drifted over us dropping the temperature by at least 10 degrees. Lovely meal and as luck would have it, we had dined at the oldest restaurant in the Piazza Navona. YAY US ... the bill was worth the comfort!
Site-seeing done for the day it was time to do a little shopping. I hate shopping. I really hate shopping for clothes. I really hate shopping for clothes that look gorgeous and then don't make ME look like the mannequin! We found Zara again (remember ... Hong Kong .. Bobbie in Zara?) - I left her there in a state of glazed eyed bliss and went for a walk. I was actually looking for a bookstore that sold English language books because a book on Italy, particularly Tuscany, would come in really handy for the next week. I must have walked for about an hour and had no luck. Went back to find Bobbie and found a bookstore literally right across from Zara and found the book we wanted. *sigh* Where were the signs huh?
Caught another bus to a different area and got off a stop too late and found ourselves in front of a non descript church. Wondered why people were lining up to go in (maybe it's a mass or something). Got back to the hotel, did a little reading and found out it's the church that monks used human skeleton parts to build with in an underground area. Duh - that would have been strange/interesting/macabre to see.
Finished with shopping, we washed our filty feet at the hotel .. all day walking in thongs made our feet black! Walked about 50m down the road and sat and ate some more. Cannot maintain this eating thing - I'm fairly sure I'm about to explode and it ain't gonna be pretty! Upside was ... free wifi! Downside; no-one but Bobbie & I to share it with. Don't even know the password ... as the waiter said it's a very rude word in Italian. Glad I didn't ask.
I've been to Rome 4 times now and never been to the Pantheon which is one of Romes oldest temples, dating to around 120 AD. That was where we headed first. Jumped on the right bus and only had to wait 4 stops. Got talking to some young Aussie guys and giving them some tips ... and missed our stop .... by a long way. In fact, we went to the very end of the bus route. Stayed on the bus and waited for it to go back the opposite way.
Finally got to our destination: The Pantheon. Walking past the typical roman columns into the bottleneck that is the entrance (there's only one way in/out), your eye is drawn upward to a massive dome with the best skylight I've ever seen! Light was streaming in and my camera just couldn't do it justice. The multi-coloured marble was a feast for the eyes and as I leaned against a column, a positive and cooling tactile experience was had after standing outside in the heat. Cannot believe how many tourists are burnt to a crisp - too easy to spot. We have been slathering on the suncream and I've still got a watch tan on my wrist!
After the Pantheon we side stepped over to the Piazza Navona, probably the most famous of Rome's piazzas. Market stalls line the centre of the piazza and restaurants are right around the perimeter. Beautiful water fountain in the centre which I believe is sculpted to represent the four great rivers of the world. Very hard to get a decent photo with all these damn sunburnt tourists hanging about! Walked past a couple of restaurants and made our decision on which one to eat/drink at based not on the menu prices (for that would be smart) but on the amount of water misting from the room of their alfresco umbrellas. Oh my ... it was divine. People watching was never so much fun. Sweaty red faced visitors, grasping their water bottles and desperately looking for shade ... and all this was witnessed from the comfort of our little table as the mist gently drifted over us dropping the temperature by at least 10 degrees. Lovely meal and as luck would have it, we had dined at the oldest restaurant in the Piazza Navona. YAY US ... the bill was worth the comfort!
Site-seeing done for the day it was time to do a little shopping. I hate shopping. I really hate shopping for clothes. I really hate shopping for clothes that look gorgeous and then don't make ME look like the mannequin! We found Zara again (remember ... Hong Kong .. Bobbie in Zara?) - I left her there in a state of glazed eyed bliss and went for a walk. I was actually looking for a bookstore that sold English language books because a book on Italy, particularly Tuscany, would come in really handy for the next week. I must have walked for about an hour and had no luck. Went back to find Bobbie and found a bookstore literally right across from Zara and found the book we wanted. *sigh* Where were the signs huh?
Caught another bus to a different area and got off a stop too late and found ourselves in front of a non descript church. Wondered why people were lining up to go in (maybe it's a mass or something). Got back to the hotel, did a little reading and found out it's the church that monks used human skeleton parts to build with in an underground area. Duh - that would have been strange/interesting/macabre to see.
Finished with shopping, we washed our filty feet at the hotel .. all day walking in thongs made our feet black! Walked about 50m down the road and sat and ate some more. Cannot maintain this eating thing - I'm fairly sure I'm about to explode and it ain't gonna be pretty! Upside was ... free wifi! Downside; no-one but Bobbie & I to share it with. Don't even know the password ... as the waiter said it's a very rude word in Italian. Glad I didn't ask.
Tuesday, June 28, 2011
It's getting HOT over here ....
Tuesday, June 28
Just one thing on the agenda today ... Vatican City and a good thing it was too. What a scorcher of a day. Managed to see the temperature later on today at 6.30pm and it was 34oC.
Anyway ... back to the beginning. We took the local buses and arrived at Vatican City at around 11.00am. Could not believe the lines - they would have to have been at least 2kms long ... and that was just to get into the Vatican itself. We were comtemplating what to do when approached by a tour group hawker ... another glance at the lines convinced us it was probably worth it. We followed her to the group meeting point after which we were walked around to the back of the Vatican to the agency office. As we walked around on the side of the road with the shade we could see across the road at the line (in full sun) to get into the museums ... another couple of kilometres. In short, visiting the Vatican, Sistine Chapel & associated museums is NOT something I would recommend doing without a group. It took us a VERY long time - perhaps about an hour to get into the Vatican museum.
Once inside though it was amazing. Our tour guide was an art history student and we were astounded at the knowledge he shared with us as we walked through the many areas including the Pinecone Courtyard. There's a giant pinecone there that was 'pinecone-napped', as Bobbie put it, by one of the popes ... so hence the Pinecone Courtyard! We walked past sooooo many marble statue busts it is unbelievable that there is any marble left in the world to quarry! We were told that the sculpture and art we see is only a third of what the Vatican has in its possession. The Sistine Chapel is as beautiful as ever. Michelangelo really did NOT like painting and as he was forced to paint the chapel (short story for blog purposes) ... he really knew how to show the authorities of the day what he felt. The Last Judgement contains a self portrait in misery and on the ceiling itself he painted one panel with God bare-bummed ... that way God was literally mooning the Pope that commissioned Michelangelo to paint the chapel in the first place everytime he looked up!! Love it. Not allowed to take photos in there (a real shame) and there are guards constantly calling "Shhhh, no talking" "SILENCE" "No Talk". Ok ... got it.... be reverent.
After the Chapel our Tour Guide collected our little headsets and gave us a bit of an orientation to the Basilica itself. Another huge line was beside us to climb the steps to the top of the Dome ... roughly 500 up (and what goes up must come down). Another hour and a half was just too much to think about. So we went into the Basilica ..... the sheer magnitude of wealth is apparent. Statues, artwork, marble floor, crypts. Every inch is covered and is glorious to look out. So much it was overload.
It was a very long, hot day so after the Basilica (and not having eaten since Breakfast) we went back to the Trattoria near the Trevi Fountain where our friendly waiter served us graciously once again. Even sang Happy Birthday to us ... again. Rolled on out of there and waddled off to find a bus home. Found the bus station and when the bus finally came we found ourselves in rush hour ... on public transport .... with a LOT of other people. There are perhaps 6-8 seats on the entire bus so nearly everyone is standing. Up close and personal doesn't quite cut it when you can feel the person's body shape who happens to be next to/behind/ or in front of you. No groping was experienced but as I said at the beginning of this entry - I noted the temperature at 6.30pm was 34oC .... that was OUTSIDE the bus .... without sweaty people ... with body odour .... and sardine conditions.
Do you know how many people can fit into a public bus in Rome? A HELL OF A LOT!!
Just one thing on the agenda today ... Vatican City and a good thing it was too. What a scorcher of a day. Managed to see the temperature later on today at 6.30pm and it was 34oC.
Anyway ... back to the beginning. We took the local buses and arrived at Vatican City at around 11.00am. Could not believe the lines - they would have to have been at least 2kms long ... and that was just to get into the Vatican itself. We were comtemplating what to do when approached by a tour group hawker ... another glance at the lines convinced us it was probably worth it. We followed her to the group meeting point after which we were walked around to the back of the Vatican to the agency office. As we walked around on the side of the road with the shade we could see across the road at the line (in full sun) to get into the museums ... another couple of kilometres. In short, visiting the Vatican, Sistine Chapel & associated museums is NOT something I would recommend doing without a group. It took us a VERY long time - perhaps about an hour to get into the Vatican museum.
Once inside though it was amazing. Our tour guide was an art history student and we were astounded at the knowledge he shared with us as we walked through the many areas including the Pinecone Courtyard. There's a giant pinecone there that was 'pinecone-napped', as Bobbie put it, by one of the popes ... so hence the Pinecone Courtyard! We walked past sooooo many marble statue busts it is unbelievable that there is any marble left in the world to quarry! We were told that the sculpture and art we see is only a third of what the Vatican has in its possession. The Sistine Chapel is as beautiful as ever. Michelangelo really did NOT like painting and as he was forced to paint the chapel (short story for blog purposes) ... he really knew how to show the authorities of the day what he felt. The Last Judgement contains a self portrait in misery and on the ceiling itself he painted one panel with God bare-bummed ... that way God was literally mooning the Pope that commissioned Michelangelo to paint the chapel in the first place everytime he looked up!! Love it. Not allowed to take photos in there (a real shame) and there are guards constantly calling "Shhhh, no talking" "SILENCE" "No Talk". Ok ... got it.... be reverent.
After the Chapel our Tour Guide collected our little headsets and gave us a bit of an orientation to the Basilica itself. Another huge line was beside us to climb the steps to the top of the Dome ... roughly 500 up (and what goes up must come down). Another hour and a half was just too much to think about. So we went into the Basilica ..... the sheer magnitude of wealth is apparent. Statues, artwork, marble floor, crypts. Every inch is covered and is glorious to look out. So much it was overload.
It was a very long, hot day so after the Basilica (and not having eaten since Breakfast) we went back to the Trattoria near the Trevi Fountain where our friendly waiter served us graciously once again. Even sang Happy Birthday to us ... again. Rolled on out of there and waddled off to find a bus home. Found the bus station and when the bus finally came we found ourselves in rush hour ... on public transport .... with a LOT of other people. There are perhaps 6-8 seats on the entire bus so nearly everyone is standing. Up close and personal doesn't quite cut it when you can feel the person's body shape who happens to be next to/behind/ or in front of you. No groping was experienced but as I said at the beginning of this entry - I noted the temperature at 6.30pm was 34oC .... that was OUTSIDE the bus .... without sweaty people ... with body odour .... and sardine conditions.
Do you know how many people can fit into a public bus in Rome? A HELL OF A LOT!!
Monday, June 27, 2011
Food Babies and GRAPPA
Monday, June 27
We made it to breakfast today (thank goodness) cause that's all we had to eat all day. Bobbie was ready ... after 3 cuppacinos!! We went to the Colosseum and that's where we found the population of Rome. A street tour hawker explained why ... the last Sunday of every month is free to enter St Peter's (Vatican) so consequently all those tourists decide to go to the Colosseum on the Monday. Logging that one down in my Travel Agenty stuff. The line was enormous just for tickets so decided to go with the street hawker. It was good, straight in and they give you a good commentary on the history of the building and allow free time before the next meeting point which was the Palatine Hill.
It was stinking hot so a purchase of the touristy sun umbrellas was in order. Damn street hawker wanted 5 Euro. No. Offered me 4. No, I've seen it for 3. DONE. he he (though, I may have been able to get him down to 2? maybe). Met David our guide and went through the grounds of what was the most important hill in ancient Rome. Even walked on marble floor fragments that the emperors would have walked on. David introduced us to the concept of tour group bullying. At the last stop on the tour we were instructed to form a wall and walk all together towards the lookout balcony. He would yell and shout and we were to watch all the other tourists scarper away. Worked a treat and we had prime position! Couldn't stay for the last couple of minutes as we had to allow time to get back to the hotel for an organised tour of the Catacombs. Bye David ... you were awesome!
Panic set in when the time of our hotel pick up was drawing near and after a couple of phone calls to the supplier we decided to flag a taxi. Couple of minutes later we were safely at the meeting point .... where we wanted for the next 45 mins. *sigh* There was a big drama as one of the other tour buses had hit a car and then pushed it LITERALLY under the bus in front. What a mess ... I took photos and when I get a stick - that's definately being posted. Finally onto the tour bus and we have 3 stops over the next couple of hours. The first being St John (English version). Apparently, this is the most important church of Rome ... not St Peters. Reason has something to do with someone being in power of something ... kinda can't remember but, it was another great church. Only hitch was ... Bobbie was scantily clad for church going today. Singlet shirt and shorts ... OH LA LA!!! Draped her scarf over her shoulders and then had to borrow an American lady's very stylish navy hoodie to drape around her legs. WOW, she cut a stunning profile! Another highlight was that this is the church that houses the steps that Christ ascended on his way to Pontius Pilate. Correction: The Holy Stairs are not in St Johns ... but in another little church pretty much across the road. The steps were apparently brought back by St Helen. They're protected by brass coverings but you can walk the same path ... just on your knees.
After that we went to the Catacombs which was A.M.A.Z.I.N.G.!!! Absolutely worth the trip ... there are no photos because the catacombs are owned by the Vatican and therefore no photos allowed (certainly not there anyway). The Tour Guide was so blase, slapping the centuries old marble and digging off tiny bits of the Roman soil called Tofa. After that we were on to our last stop ... St Maria Maggiore. If I remember correctly this is the only church of the 4 (?) principal churches that has not been rebuilt. Another church meant that Bobbie needed another church outfit. On went the scarf and when the next street hawker came up to sell a scarf (she was a prime target in her shorts!) ... I talked him down from 5 to 2 Euros. :)
Caught a taxi to the Trastavere area of Rome tonight and had dinner at the Ristorante Galeassi. Our waiter was very friendly ... no, not THAT kind of friendly! Great meal, though we just can't eat like the Italians. We don't eat nearly as many courses and yet we're the ones with the food babies!!?!? Bobbie tried Grappa aka Rocket Fuel at 40% alcohol. Apparently you have this at the end of the meal as it aides digestion. She got halfway through the small glass and with glazed eyes could not drink any more ... so tipped it into the lovely trailing plants alongside us. She now claims she is dissolving from the inside out. Grappa is eating away her pasta baby. Walked around the little alleys for a while before waving down a taxi for our ride back to the hotel.
We found the perfect taxi driver for the Amazing Race. We had a true roman experience. Clenched knees and closed eyes. A thrill of a ride .... but it wasn't a race and there is no million dollars waiting for us.
We made it to breakfast today (thank goodness) cause that's all we had to eat all day. Bobbie was ready ... after 3 cuppacinos!! We went to the Colosseum and that's where we found the population of Rome. A street tour hawker explained why ... the last Sunday of every month is free to enter St Peter's (Vatican) so consequently all those tourists decide to go to the Colosseum on the Monday. Logging that one down in my Travel Agenty stuff. The line was enormous just for tickets so decided to go with the street hawker. It was good, straight in and they give you a good commentary on the history of the building and allow free time before the next meeting point which was the Palatine Hill.
It was stinking hot so a purchase of the touristy sun umbrellas was in order. Damn street hawker wanted 5 Euro. No. Offered me 4. No, I've seen it for 3. DONE. he he (though, I may have been able to get him down to 2? maybe). Met David our guide and went through the grounds of what was the most important hill in ancient Rome. Even walked on marble floor fragments that the emperors would have walked on. David introduced us to the concept of tour group bullying. At the last stop on the tour we were instructed to form a wall and walk all together towards the lookout balcony. He would yell and shout and we were to watch all the other tourists scarper away. Worked a treat and we had prime position! Couldn't stay for the last couple of minutes as we had to allow time to get back to the hotel for an organised tour of the Catacombs. Bye David ... you were awesome!
Panic set in when the time of our hotel pick up was drawing near and after a couple of phone calls to the supplier we decided to flag a taxi. Couple of minutes later we were safely at the meeting point .... where we wanted for the next 45 mins. *sigh* There was a big drama as one of the other tour buses had hit a car and then pushed it LITERALLY under the bus in front. What a mess ... I took photos and when I get a stick - that's definately being posted. Finally onto the tour bus and we have 3 stops over the next couple of hours. The first being St John (English version). Apparently, this is the most important church of Rome ... not St Peters. Reason has something to do with someone being in power of something ... kinda can't remember but, it was another great church. Only hitch was ... Bobbie was scantily clad for church going today. Singlet shirt and shorts ... OH LA LA!!! Draped her scarf over her shoulders and then had to borrow an American lady's very stylish navy hoodie to drape around her legs. WOW, she cut a stunning profile! Another highlight was that this is the church that houses the steps that Christ ascended on his way to Pontius Pilate. Correction: The Holy Stairs are not in St Johns ... but in another little church pretty much across the road. The steps were apparently brought back by St Helen. They're protected by brass coverings but you can walk the same path ... just on your knees.
After that we went to the Catacombs which was A.M.A.Z.I.N.G.!!! Absolutely worth the trip ... there are no photos because the catacombs are owned by the Vatican and therefore no photos allowed (certainly not there anyway). The Tour Guide was so blase, slapping the centuries old marble and digging off tiny bits of the Roman soil called Tofa. After that we were on to our last stop ... St Maria Maggiore. If I remember correctly this is the only church of the 4 (?) principal churches that has not been rebuilt. Another church meant that Bobbie needed another church outfit. On went the scarf and when the next street hawker came up to sell a scarf (she was a prime target in her shorts!) ... I talked him down from 5 to 2 Euros. :)
Caught a taxi to the Trastavere area of Rome tonight and had dinner at the Ristorante Galeassi. Our waiter was very friendly ... no, not THAT kind of friendly! Great meal, though we just can't eat like the Italians. We don't eat nearly as many courses and yet we're the ones with the food babies!!?!? Bobbie tried Grappa aka Rocket Fuel at 40% alcohol. Apparently you have this at the end of the meal as it aides digestion. She got halfway through the small glass and with glazed eyes could not drink any more ... so tipped it into the lovely trailing plants alongside us. She now claims she is dissolving from the inside out. Grappa is eating away her pasta baby. Walked around the little alleys for a while before waving down a taxi for our ride back to the hotel.
We found the perfect taxi driver for the Amazing Race. We had a true roman experience. Clenched knees and closed eyes. A thrill of a ride .... but it wasn't a race and there is no million dollars waiting for us.
When in Rome .........
Sunday, 26 June
I failed to mention that we arrived very late ... as in early this morning and we were STARVING!! When Alitalia says you are served a snack onboard ... they really mean a snack. Couple of biscuits and a drink. Got into our room which was not very impressive at all. Asked the concierge whether there was room service 'no' .. ok is there somewhere close by to get something. "You can go across the road, they are Egyptian ... but do not be afraid" (huh?) Ducked across and grabbed the only thing left on the menu at 1.00am ... Lasagne. Flashed my travel agent card when we finally woke up (and missed breakfast) and were given a much better room. *sigh* At least the water in the bidet wasn't going to scald us! KIDDING ... the shower in the first room went from skin sloughing hot to cryofreeze within 10 seconds, every 10 seconds. Once we had our new room sorted, it was off to hit the cobblestones of Rome. We were very disorientated to start with and very hungry, after missing our breakfast, so first order of the day was to find something to eat. Found a cafe quick near the Termini (main railway station) where the waiter was friendly - perhaps a little too friendly? Had warned Bobbie about the Italian men and their penchant for a quick grab or touch. He was very hands on and gave us both a side handled hug ... and then he spoke with an English accent. *groan* A sleezy Brit in Italy!!
Now we had food in our bellies, we were right to go. Felt that the best thing to do was jump on a Hop On Hop Off tour of the city and get our bearings. Great idea but shocking bus tour .... should have gone with the official one. The speakers did not work at all on ours but at least we got to see what we wanted to do. We stayed on the bus until it had almost done a full circle. Went into Basilica St Maria degli Angeli e Dei Matiri which did not look so church-like from the outside but was incredible on the inside. Loads of information about Galileo and how he wasn't an atheist but was merely dedicated to the 'logic of the creator' and was in fact a very faithful man. It was also the last architectural project of Michelangelo.
Next stop on our massive walking tour of Rome was the Monument of Emanuele II ... or as Bobbie & I tried to describe it to someone ... the big white thingy. Well, it is big ... and white. Basically a military museum but was considered quite sacred because it is a monument that was built to commemorate the unification of Italy.
From the big white thingy we thought 'oh, it's not so far to the Trevi Fountain'. Lovely walk, got sidetracked by many shops along the way and finally made it there. MASSES and MASSES of people, all vying for a spot on the marble lip of the fountain to take the all important coin toss shot into the fountain. Tradition holds that if you throw a coin into the Trevi Fountain it guarantees your return. YIPPEEEE. Had lunch at a Trattoria around the corner and was serenaded by an accordian player. When he came up for our 'donation' I had no coins, he kindly offered to give change. Do I look green? I said I would give him 2 Euros. He dug into his little crushed paper cup and presented me with 2 Euros but before I handed him my 5 Euro note, I shook my head and shoved my hand into that little cup for my extra Euro. The guy at the table next to us thought it was amusing and Bobbie was mortified (but laughing) that I had the gall to do that. What can I say ... I'm part Scottish.
Food Babies on board we took off again and headed for the Spanish Steps. I can honestly say, I've been to Rome 3 times before but have never approached them from the back. Walked DOWN the steps and sat and relaxed for a while ... and did a bit of people watching. There are plenty of street hawkers trying to sell bags and scarves and even alcohol but we didn't see a single person the grog.
Walked ALL the way home and collapsed .... where's a masseuse when you need one?
I failed to mention that we arrived very late ... as in early this morning and we were STARVING!! When Alitalia says you are served a snack onboard ... they really mean a snack. Couple of biscuits and a drink. Got into our room which was not very impressive at all. Asked the concierge whether there was room service 'no' .. ok is there somewhere close by to get something. "You can go across the road, they are Egyptian ... but do not be afraid" (huh?) Ducked across and grabbed the only thing left on the menu at 1.00am ... Lasagne. Flashed my travel agent card when we finally woke up (and missed breakfast) and were given a much better room. *sigh* At least the water in the bidet wasn't going to scald us! KIDDING ... the shower in the first room went from skin sloughing hot to cryofreeze within 10 seconds, every 10 seconds. Once we had our new room sorted, it was off to hit the cobblestones of Rome. We were very disorientated to start with and very hungry, after missing our breakfast, so first order of the day was to find something to eat. Found a cafe quick near the Termini (main railway station) where the waiter was friendly - perhaps a little too friendly? Had warned Bobbie about the Italian men and their penchant for a quick grab or touch. He was very hands on and gave us both a side handled hug ... and then he spoke with an English accent. *groan* A sleezy Brit in Italy!!
Now we had food in our bellies, we were right to go. Felt that the best thing to do was jump on a Hop On Hop Off tour of the city and get our bearings. Great idea but shocking bus tour .... should have gone with the official one. The speakers did not work at all on ours but at least we got to see what we wanted to do. We stayed on the bus until it had almost done a full circle. Went into Basilica St Maria degli Angeli e Dei Matiri which did not look so church-like from the outside but was incredible on the inside. Loads of information about Galileo and how he wasn't an atheist but was merely dedicated to the 'logic of the creator' and was in fact a very faithful man. It was also the last architectural project of Michelangelo.
Next stop on our massive walking tour of Rome was the Monument of Emanuele II ... or as Bobbie & I tried to describe it to someone ... the big white thingy. Well, it is big ... and white. Basically a military museum but was considered quite sacred because it is a monument that was built to commemorate the unification of Italy.
From the big white thingy we thought 'oh, it's not so far to the Trevi Fountain'. Lovely walk, got sidetracked by many shops along the way and finally made it there. MASSES and MASSES of people, all vying for a spot on the marble lip of the fountain to take the all important coin toss shot into the fountain. Tradition holds that if you throw a coin into the Trevi Fountain it guarantees your return. YIPPEEEE. Had lunch at a Trattoria around the corner and was serenaded by an accordian player. When he came up for our 'donation' I had no coins, he kindly offered to give change. Do I look green? I said I would give him 2 Euros. He dug into his little crushed paper cup and presented me with 2 Euros but before I handed him my 5 Euro note, I shook my head and shoved my hand into that little cup for my extra Euro. The guy at the table next to us thought it was amusing and Bobbie was mortified (but laughing) that I had the gall to do that. What can I say ... I'm part Scottish.
Food Babies on board we took off again and headed for the Spanish Steps. I can honestly say, I've been to Rome 3 times before but have never approached them from the back. Walked DOWN the steps and sat and relaxed for a while ... and did a bit of people watching. There are plenty of street hawkers trying to sell bags and scarves and even alcohol but we didn't see a single person the grog.
Walked ALL the way home and collapsed .... where's a masseuse when you need one?
Sunday, June 26, 2011
Last Day in London ... and Miming
Saturday, June 25
Stayed late in our apartment as check out wasn’t until 11 o’clock. Packed up, did some internet research on where to leave our bags (note: Paddington Station). Bought our Heathrow Express tickets on my mobile ... the reason I record this is because they have the facility to send the ticket to your phone and it gets scanned on the train – AWESOME. The Russian cleaners were very keen to get us out ... so we dawdled until the appropriate time.
Only two stops on the agenda today as that was about all we were going to fit in. Went to visit the Templar’s Church (from the DaVinci Code). Not a particularly beautiful church but interesting all the same as the Knight’s Templar built the circular part back around 1100. The Knight’s effigies were interesting despite the damage they had suffered during WWII when a bomb hit the church.
Then off to Portobello Road Markets. OH MY GOSH ... those markets are HUGE. Can’t comprehend why anybody would shop anywhere else because there was everything from clothing, to antiques, to food, to junk and jewellery and vintage gear. We only did a small portion of it owing to time constraints but would love to go back sometime and see more.
Once safely checked in at Heathrow it was time to eat again ... wow, you do a lot of that on holidays. Lucky they only weigh the bags huh? Bobbie had a pint of beer and a bottle of wine (500ml) and was suitably chilled to say the least. Was not the least bit concerned that there was some point in time that we needed to be at the gate. I of course was not suitably chilled ... but stressing – the planes will leave without you! Finally dragged the reluctant hurry’er and got to the gate as they were opening it for boarding.
Sat next to a lovely older Italian lady who was very nervous on take off so I had to comfort her despite the language barrier. What did Bobbie do? Made aeroplane flying actions (not really sure that flapping wings was the right thing to mime) and saying OK. It was a good thing the woman closed her eyes when Bobbie mimed the plane going down! Through the course of the flight we managed to find out her name was Rosa and that she had two children; a son and daughter, one of whom lives in Rome, the other in London. Oh, and she did have a husband but he died. The mime for that was almost comical. Imagine; eyes closed and arms and legs extended straight out in front. Language barrier? Never. I don’t hold much hope for Bobbie’s translation skills. We’re in trouble. With the little Italian I could remember and deciphered from Rosa, we told her we each had 3 children. We told her we were sisters, from Australia, and holidaying in Italy. She said we were very beautiful ... lucky her opinion of us was not affected by Bobbie’s miming! Kept her happy during landing and she wished us a Happy Holiday and I thanked her for the lesson in Italian. See Italian is not so hard to figure out ... just bring Marcel Marceau with you.
Customs was interesting ... take your passport, stamp it and throw it back at you. Not a welcome to Italy or a warning not to mime ... nothing. Met our transfer driver and as we exited the building, saw Rosa and her son. She grabbed both of us and gave us a good Italian smooch on both cheeks. Too bad we couldn’t get to inviting ourselves for dinner!
Bonnie Scotland and the Human GPS
Now in Italy where there is NO free wi-fi and what wi-fi there is ... is SUPER EXPENSIVE ... so blogs will be recorded and uploaded when possible ... enjoy!
Thursday, 23 June
Up really bright and early for our speed date with Scotland ... “Don’t talk to me for an hour” says Bobbie. J She loves waking up! We touched down in Bonnie Scotland and as the slight drizzle fell, Bobbie noted the weather wasn’t that crash hot and lucky we had bought one of our many umbrellas (I think we’re collecting them now!). All I had to say in reply was ‘Welcome to Scotland’. Grabbed our hire car ... no pressure here ... it only had 11 miles on it so, it was brand spanking new. As we exit the airport my trusty navigator reminds me to remain on the right side of the road. This does not bode well especially since in the UK you drive on the left!! Hmmmm. Together with our mud map we found our way to a parking garage in the Old Town part of Edinburgh. Typically, the sun came out ... and went away, then came back, it drizzled and the sun was back again as we trudged our way up and down the Royal Mile. The original plan was to go straight to Edinburgh Castle for the firing of the one o’clock cannon we were pretty hungry so stopped at The World’s End pub for a bite ... and a pint. We ordered the haggis which we both agree was very nice (it really is! Don’t think about what is in it ... just try it sometime!)
Thursday, 23 June
Up really bright and early for our speed date with Scotland ... “Don’t talk to me for an hour” says Bobbie. J She loves waking up! We touched down in Bonnie Scotland and as the slight drizzle fell, Bobbie noted the weather wasn’t that crash hot and lucky we had bought one of our many umbrellas (I think we’re collecting them now!). All I had to say in reply was ‘Welcome to Scotland’. Grabbed our hire car ... no pressure here ... it only had 11 miles on it so, it was brand spanking new. As we exit the airport my trusty navigator reminds me to remain on the right side of the road. This does not bode well especially since in the UK you drive on the left!! Hmmmm. Together with our mud map we found our way to a parking garage in the Old Town part of Edinburgh. Typically, the sun came out ... and went away, then came back, it drizzled and the sun was back again as we trudged our way up and down the Royal Mile. The original plan was to go straight to Edinburgh Castle for the firing of the one o’clock cannon we were pretty hungry so stopped at The World’s End pub for a bite ... and a pint. We ordered the haggis which we both agree was very nice (it really is! Don’t think about what is in it ... just try it sometime!)
We put our tourist hats aside for a short while and visited the relis ... Mum’s cousin Billy & his wife Helen. I use to live with them for a time when I was in Scotland. It was very nice to see them and amusing to watch Helen struggle to understand Bobbie’s accent. It was only easier to understand me as she knew the cadence of my voice. We had a lovely afternoon tea with them and then went off to meet up with Keith (the family tree connection is there but not sure how to describe it – perhaps the crazy squirrel?). Keith took us out for dinner and after stuffing ourselves we went for a very brisk walk in the very crisp cool air. Oh look Princes Street Gardens ... quick, let’s get back to the bar where’s it warm! We crashed at Keith’s place for the night which was great. Bobbie said her thanks and goodbyes before retiring and I got up in the morning to say Cheerio! It was great catching up with Keith again ... just a real shame I didn’t get to see all my other squirrely relatives! Missed you guys!
Tourist hats back on and we went back to the city and stopped first at Mary King’s Close .... the part of Edinburgh that is still underground. Parts of the close date back to ............ and it was fascinating to hear the stories of how people lived. Our guide ‘Agnes’ (aka Karen) was just brilliant and charmed everyone with her portrayal of a 17th century maid/guide. Back on the surface we hot-footed it up to the Castle for the one o’clock cannon. Made it in time and thankfully this time the sun was just perfect (the last time I was here it was freezing and windy and miserable). An older couple sidled up to us and the man tried lifting his wife so she could see over the castle wall, she wasn’t real comfortable with that and we joked around that he was really trying to toss her over the edge like in the days of old when everything was tossed into the Nor Loch .... now drained and beautified as Princes St Gardens. Went to take Bobbie up to St Margaret’s Chapel – the oldest building in Edinburgh but there was a wedding scheduled so that put that off. Down to the Prisoners of War Exhibition then ... very interesting. Did you know that Napolean tried to put his brother on the throne of Spain? By this time Bobbie was suffering from a case of ABC ... “Another Bloody Castle” and as I had seen much of it before ... we made our way back to the High Street and did some last minute tourist shopping. Had a spot of bother driving back to the airport. Got stuck at a confusing intersection (Lothian Road & Princes St) ... and ended up back two attempts to get on the right road because we succeeded the third time .... only to find we had been on the right road both the previous 2 times. Perhaps a GPS purchase would have been a good idea? It was all good though, we only panicked running to our gate for about a minute .... and I ran past the queue. Stopped and walked back to the end of the line. All good. Safe.
Wednesday, June 22, 2011
Feeling the burn ....
A nice early start today saw us walk down to the closest gate to Kensington Gardens/Hyde Park to hire a bike. All over London Barclays Bank has bike racks where you can hire a bike. Bobbie did ask whether riding a bike was something you never forget ... huh? So we whipped out the travel card and eventually managed to unlock and reef the bikes from the highly sophiscated bike racks. We started in Kensington Gardens with a view to visiting Kensington Palace (of course) ... however, it's mostly closed for renovations and after just 5 minutes on the bikes, we were already starting to feel the burn. Lactic acid build up ... check! With 'riding along on my push bike honey' coursing through my brain we set off again. We reached the other side of the Gardens and then decided to try and find the Peter Pan Statue and Princess Diana's memorial fountain. Only so many of the paths are marked as bike paths and it took us a while to figure out what others were ring-a-linging their bells at us ... seems that single file is the way to ride in the park. Other paths we had to walk alongside our bikes and while posing for a self-timed photo ... we watched incredulously as a woman noticed us posing, turned her head and noted the camera position and yet kept walking!?!? We do have a great photo though of us ... with her just walking out of frame. HA ... she didn't time her photo bomb to perfection. A Canadian couple were watching and decided that we look in need of assistance and took the photo for us.
I think we actually got lost in the park .... after we found Peter Pan, we kind of stumbled across Princess Diana's memorial fountain which wasn't open yet. Our early start was working for us ... on schedule already! Finally found our way and realised that we had actually cycled all the way to Hyde Park Corner ... and if you look at a map, it pretty much means we did the whole park circumference. WE TOTALLY ROCK!!! Redocked the bikes and started our walk to Buckingham Palace (oh yes, we were feeling invigorated after that and a good walk was what was needed .... besides, there had to be a coffee shop somewhere along the way right?). It started to rain and duh? guess who forgot their umbrella. Hmmm, frizz city here I come. Sidled up to Bobbie (who of course is like a boy scout and comes prepared for everything) until we came across a convenience/souvenir shop. Presto, umbrella purchase in hand ... it was on to Buckingham Palace for the Changing of the Guard. My lovely friend Ash recommended getting there quite early in order to get a good position. So we pretty much were stoop sitting just outside the Palace for about an hour ... and Ash was right .... it was the best time to arrive. MASSES of people congregated. FINALLY, the ceremony started and about halfway through Bobbie said "oh come on, how long does it take to change just 2 guards" ... funny girl. There were a couple of band regiments playing and out of the 6 songs played, I picked 3. Now check out this playlist: Tom Jones (It's not Unusual), Star Trek Theme (oh yes), Barry Manilow (Cococabana), a jazz number, a waltz and then the finale "Who could ask for anything more"
Off through the London drizzle to St Paul's for attempt 2. Beautiful, beautiful church but not sure how you can maintain reverence with tourists milling around during a service. Climbed the 530 steps to the Golden Gallery (burn baby burn). It was very windy up there and as I hugged the stone wall, made my way around. Too bad it was a drizzling overcast day because the view was just amazing. Had to be the friendly Aussie and offered my services as a professional *cough* photographer to the other tourists. They were impressed with my skills I could tell! They weren't worried at all that I wasn't prepared to peel my back off the wall to take the photo. Back down the 530 steps. Legs quivering quite a bit for a while.
Went to the British Museum. Good grief that thing is huge .... fantastic displays and way too much to try and cram into a couple of hours. Circled a couple of the highlighted ones and made our way to those exhibits and taking in whatever else happened to be on the way. The Rosetta Stone was great as was the Easter Island Statue. "Dum Dum, give me Gum Gum" Egytian mummies and pieces of eight. Tiny dice the size of your fingernail in the shape of a crouched human. Mind boggling greek vases. It would take weeks, maybe months to really see a lot.
Harrods was our last stop for the day ... thank goodness cause the sore feet were back. Walked in through the perfumery and it was packed. We have come to London and visited Harrods during the ONLY sale they have for the year. There's a lot of people in there. Tried to find a cafe in there and decided that after walking through a few shopping areas that this store was just way too big for us! Found the gift shop, got what we came for and found the closest pub where we had dinner. Walked into another store and bought a couple of trinkets only to have the checkout girl ask "What language do you speak in Australia" WHAT THE? Was I speaking something else? She also asked for a recommendation about where she should live. We said Queensland and then she asked "Will I have those cute koalas in my backyard" *sigh* What are we going to do with the English I ask? Caught the bus home and hobbled into the apartment.
Bobbie just came back from the BEST food shop "Wholefoods Market" with a bunch of goodies ... nom nom nom nom ... candied almonds, fresh organic fruit, truffles, chocolate pudding and White Chocolate Lemon & Cashew Bites. AHA ... it's snack time!
Perhaps we need another burn day tomorrow me thinks?!
I think we actually got lost in the park .... after we found Peter Pan, we kind of stumbled across Princess Diana's memorial fountain which wasn't open yet. Our early start was working for us ... on schedule already! Finally found our way and realised that we had actually cycled all the way to Hyde Park Corner ... and if you look at a map, it pretty much means we did the whole park circumference. WE TOTALLY ROCK!!! Redocked the bikes and started our walk to Buckingham Palace (oh yes, we were feeling invigorated after that and a good walk was what was needed .... besides, there had to be a coffee shop somewhere along the way right?). It started to rain and duh? guess who forgot their umbrella. Hmmm, frizz city here I come. Sidled up to Bobbie (who of course is like a boy scout and comes prepared for everything) until we came across a convenience/souvenir shop. Presto, umbrella purchase in hand ... it was on to Buckingham Palace for the Changing of the Guard. My lovely friend Ash recommended getting there quite early in order to get a good position. So we pretty much were stoop sitting just outside the Palace for about an hour ... and Ash was right .... it was the best time to arrive. MASSES of people congregated. FINALLY, the ceremony started and about halfway through Bobbie said "oh come on, how long does it take to change just 2 guards" ... funny girl. There were a couple of band regiments playing and out of the 6 songs played, I picked 3. Now check out this playlist: Tom Jones (It's not Unusual), Star Trek Theme (oh yes), Barry Manilow (Cococabana), a jazz number, a waltz and then the finale "Who could ask for anything more"
Off through the London drizzle to St Paul's for attempt 2. Beautiful, beautiful church but not sure how you can maintain reverence with tourists milling around during a service. Climbed the 530 steps to the Golden Gallery (burn baby burn). It was very windy up there and as I hugged the stone wall, made my way around. Too bad it was a drizzling overcast day because the view was just amazing. Had to be the friendly Aussie and offered my services as a professional *cough* photographer to the other tourists. They were impressed with my skills I could tell! They weren't worried at all that I wasn't prepared to peel my back off the wall to take the photo. Back down the 530 steps. Legs quivering quite a bit for a while.
Went to the British Museum. Good grief that thing is huge .... fantastic displays and way too much to try and cram into a couple of hours. Circled a couple of the highlighted ones and made our way to those exhibits and taking in whatever else happened to be on the way. The Rosetta Stone was great as was the Easter Island Statue. "Dum Dum, give me Gum Gum" Egytian mummies and pieces of eight. Tiny dice the size of your fingernail in the shape of a crouched human. Mind boggling greek vases. It would take weeks, maybe months to really see a lot.
Harrods was our last stop for the day ... thank goodness cause the sore feet were back. Walked in through the perfumery and it was packed. We have come to London and visited Harrods during the ONLY sale they have for the year. There's a lot of people in there. Tried to find a cafe in there and decided that after walking through a few shopping areas that this store was just way too big for us! Found the gift shop, got what we came for and found the closest pub where we had dinner. Walked into another store and bought a couple of trinkets only to have the checkout girl ask "What language do you speak in Australia" WHAT THE? Was I speaking something else? She also asked for a recommendation about where she should live. We said Queensland and then she asked "Will I have those cute koalas in my backyard" *sigh* What are we going to do with the English I ask? Caught the bus home and hobbled into the apartment.
Bobbie just came back from the BEST food shop "Wholefoods Market" with a bunch of goodies ... nom nom nom nom ... candied almonds, fresh organic fruit, truffles, chocolate pudding and White Chocolate Lemon & Cashew Bites. AHA ... it's snack time!
Perhaps we need another burn day tomorrow me thinks?!
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